67 -327 hard starting
Just started my recently rebuilt 327 engine in my 67 on thurs night. After finally getting the timing set and the carb adjusted for a smooth idle, I found that it is real hard getting it to restart after switching it off. The carb is spraying a good stream of fuel from both nozzles down into the intake, so I don't think it's a fuel issue. The Holley was professionally rebuilt, also. I am using my original coil with a new ballast resistor, and new plugs and plug wires ,etc. , rebuilt original fuel pump, essentially everything new or professionally rebuilt. The gentleman that rebuilt the distributor did put in a Pertronix unit to eliminate the points. Anyone have ideas on what I could take a look at on this issue?? TIA Al
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Al -
Is the red wire from the Pertronix module getting a full 12 volts? The coil feed to the (+) terminal should be from the top (output side) of the ballast resistor, but the Pertronix red wire should be connected to the bottom (input side) of the resistor, which is fed directly from the ignition switch. Also, is the pink wire (second one on the coil + terminal) that goes to the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid still in place? That wire is the only source of power to the coil when the key is in the "start" position. -
Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Al,
Are you having any heat soak or secondary percolation issues with your Holley? They are notorious for that which will flood the engine and although it'll crank over when hot, won't start unless you keep the pedal to the floor without pumping or wait till she cools off.
My 67 did exactly the same thing until I put a heat insulator between the carb and intake. My engine is the base 300HP version. Good luck.Comment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Believe the basic Pertronix requires use of the ballast resistor (run step down to 8 volts), but the Pertronics II requires a full 12 volt run input. I've used them both on my Vette over the past 20 years. I just use a black jumper wire behind the ballast resistor with the Pertronix II so it's not so evident to the casual observer.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
John & Stewart, mine is a 1 wire unit, which I connected directly to the (-) side of the coil as with standard points. I'm not presently where I can check the voltage at the coil. I will re-check the pink wire connection on the starter. Are the ones you talking about a two unit or 1 wire as mine?Comment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
I'm not fami;iar with a Pertronix unit that uses just one (1) wire. Is it perhaps one of their latest design that has the rev limiter feature? Both Pertronix I and II use two wires. Peraps you have a unit from a different manufacturer that hypes the fact that they have just one wire. At any rate, I suggest you get the instructions for your unit so you can be certain it is connected properly. Are you sure the distributor is correctly oriented and not a tooth off? The VAC should sit about in the middle between the manifold and the spark plug wire bracket when it is properly timed. Also, are you sure the gear on the distributor has the dimple facing forward in line with the rotor at position #1? If you know all this, then I apologize as I hate it when other posters talk down to me about such subjects. I'm nearly 74 years old and I've forgotten more (really) than they will ever know from my experience back in the day.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Al, Tom idea is a good one to try, Ive had the same problem with my 63 AFB carb. I plan on trying a heat insulator on my car.The heat cross over tends to boil the fuel in bowl after shut down. This is a hot soak condition,When the engine is shut down theres no air flow or engine coolant circulation, The temp. will rise, sometimes its enough to rise the float level in the carb. to dump small quanitys of fuel down the throat of carb. while sitting, or just cause plan old vapor lock.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.Comment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Speaking of "hot soak", specially with a 63 having an AFB, I've had a lot of experience with this on mine and I've done about everything you can think of to solve the problem here in Florida. One source for the boiling fuel is actually the fuel line from the pump to the carb. The fuel soaks up a lot of heat in that line and has no where to expand to because there is a check valve in the pump, so it pushes the needle/seats open flooding the bowl with excess fuel which then dribbles out of the vapor vents in the venturi clusters and sometimes even the accelerator nozzles. So, therefore, even if you add a phenolic spacer under the carb and isolate the carb from other heat sources (such as the steel fuel inlet line and the steel choke tube), you still have a potential problem. I've done all these things as well as find non-ethanol fuel and my situation is at least tolerable. I also shut done for 15 minutes outside of my garage before going in.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Another step towards cooling the carb area down, is to drill, tap and plug the two heat riser ports directly under the carb. These hot air ports that come directly up from the exhaust manifold are supposed to pre-heat your carb on cold mornings to ease the warm up process. If you're in a temperate climate like i am you don't need the warm up. That's the reason you must put that thin stainless steel "gasket" up against the bottom of your carb when installed on the intake.Comment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Stuart, the rebuilder told me it was a Pertronix, but I'm not 100% sure, just going on what he said. I will try to find out on Mon. when I get back home. I did check the gear on the distributor when trying to get it exactly centered on the #1 location, but the best I could do was 1 tooth either way of it. I quit trying after several nights of frustration. Anyway, I do have the timing set at 4ATD as shown for a 300HP with auto. You think the 1 off would still be the problem? Paul & Stuart, with me , you will never insult me on offering suggestions or advice. That's why I'm asking for help and any advice or suggestions are most appreciated. There's always a chance one can overlook even the most obvious things. AlComment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
After reading the above post #11, the ignition timing is not set properly, automatic cars are set at 4 BTDC not 4*ATDC.Comment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Tim,
Not too sure about that initial advance for an automatic car in 67. The Service Manual says 4 ATDC, and I think Al has it right if it were the original distributor(unmodified). I don't know what the Pertronix will do to the advance curve, but the original distributor on a 67 300 Automatic was an oddball. It had a 40d @5100 centrifugal advance and thus it had to be ATDC on initial.
Maybe Al ought to just time the car for total advance.
It could be also that Al's problem is fuel related, percolation, or the drip-drip-drip after you shut it off when hot.Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968Comment
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Re: 67 -327 hard starting
Jim, that may be what it is, instead of a Pertronix. I know I bought a unit from from Lectric Limited for my 59 a # of years back and it was a 1 wire. I thought I understood the gentlemen to say he would be installing the Pertronix, however I could be wrong. Jerry, I put 4 gal of Sunoco racing gas (104-106 oct) in the car for start up, so that if the timing was off much to begin with, I would not have to worry about pre-detonation.I probably only have about 15 min. run time on it. Also, I thought about setting the timing to the total advance, but I'm not too keen on taking the engine up to 5100 RPMs.Comment
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