Correct finish for power steering box - NCRS Discussion Boards

Correct finish for power steering box

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Todd L.
    Expired
    • August 26, 2008
    • 298

    Correct finish for power steering box

    I am going to rebuild my steering box. What is the correct finish, if it is natural how do I achieve that finish?


    Todd
  • Jim T.
    Expired
    • March 1, 1993
    • 5351

    #2
    Re: Correct finish for power steering box

    A advertiser in NCRS Driveline "Bairs" rebuilds steering units, might give them a call and see what they do.

    Comment

    • Todd L.
      Expired
      • August 26, 2008
      • 298

      #3
      Re: Correct finish for power steering box

      I contacted Bair, and was told it is as cast; however as cast will rust so they have a paint they use to simulate "as cast". What color would that be? Anyone?

      Comment

      • Edward J.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • September 15, 2008
        • 6940

        #4
        Re: Correct finish for power steering box

        Todd, what does the judging manuel say for the finish for 73/77, Do you have one? If it is natural just have the rebuilder leave the case with no coatings, then you can spray a couple of light coats of satin clear to protect from the rust, and it will appear as natural.
        New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

        Comment

        • Gary R.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 1, 1989
          • 1796

          #5
          Re: Correct finish for power steering box

          I have rebuilt boxes for every year, 63-82. Most are black, but there were some bare c2 boxes and certainly some c3 boxes. A bare box will flash rust pretty quick. I have used several types of clear but can't say I like them much. Being next to the exhaust will some times peel them. Clean light spindle oil will protect them without changing the appearance but it won't last a long time. Fluid film lasts a while if applied correctly, and I just built a diff & T/A's using the new RPM treatment. This seems to work but you have to be sure it flows to 120* or you may find it doesn't cover correctly. For a black box I blast, etch, POR15 base coat and use under hood black for a top coat and it lasts a long time. when building the box be sure your gears are still good. Many times they are worn out or pitted. If the lash screw is buried in the cover and the box is loose they are all done. If you find the preload jumping around between 3-5 in/lb the ball screw radius is usually pitted or worn both will require new gears to resolve. The common kit bushings are lacking as well. They will provide support but are no where as good as fit bushings are in a stock box. You can find my thread online on rebuilding these and it will offer you some help.

          Comment

          Working...

          Debug Information

          Searching...Please wait.
          An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

          Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
          An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

          Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
          An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
          There are no results that meet this criteria.
          Search Result for "|||"