Is there a machine or a method that can deck the block perpindicular to the crank that only goes as far as the exposed pad without touching the numbers? It would seem possible since the pad is not part of the surface that mates with the head.
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
Here was a good thread on that issue:
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...block-OK-to-doBig Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico -
Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
Over the years I have done several blocks like that. I "toted" several cussings from machinists over having to do that.
Basically you "paint" the pad with Dykum, scribe a line immediately in front of the cylinder head, remove the head, set it up in a vertical milling machine and cut the deck. Done properly, you really have to look to see the line in front of the head.
Dick WhittingtonComment
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
Dick, thank you. That is good enough for me. I have had sellers in the past tell me the engine was rebuilt and decked, but the numbers definitely look original to me. In the future I will ask the name of the machine shop to verify it.Comment
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
Don't think you will find many automotive machine shops that either have the equipment, or be willing to do the extra work. I paid over $400 in the 80's for that kind of work. But when you have a block that has a very bad area between cylinders you don't have much choice.Dick WhittingtonComment
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
I will be ready to take my block (396) to the machine shop in a few weeks . I needs 8 sleeves due to being bored to far . I have a 2nd 396 block that has allot of rust and one cracked cylinder from freezing I think . I told them I didnt want the numbers or the broach marks touched . They looked at me like "are you nuts" . Can a block be sleeved without hurting the numbers or the factory broach marks ?Comment
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
Bill: If you're talking about a 65 Corvette 396 block (with the ribs above the timing chain cover) they have the same water jackets as a 427 and can be bored out to at least 427 +.060" (4.310). That is a 215 thousanths over bore. Some may even be able to go 100 thou over 427. Unless your block is already 427 + 0.100 (which would be very unlikely), you don't need sleeves. Also I have seen plenty of sleeved blocks that were not decked. The protruding part of the sleeve can be milled to the deck surface without decking. Don't let a machine shop talk you into decking your block.Comment
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
Hi Patrick ,The block from #16718 was a blower motor and was already 60 over 427 . one cylinder cracked . the second engine # 16120 (complete carb to pan) was removed at one year old with a spun bearing and sat outside under a tarp until I bought it in 1987 . It has one cracked cylinder I dont know if the others would clean up .It looks good , I had it dipped at ready strip years ago . I plan to use 16120 if no other cracks are found . Its going in #17346 . I have been looking for my original sense 1981 . I have found other blocks that would need stamped but I think I'm better off using a close number block ? What do you think ?Comment
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
I think 16120 is the way to go. If it's rusted too bad for 396+.030 or .060, then just go 427 std bore. One sleeve can certainly be milled off at deck height without the need for decking. Just get it align bored if the spun bearing requires it.Comment
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Re: Decking a block and leave the pad alone
My 1968 302 had 3 sleeves replaced and did not deck the block. Had too keep that Z28 matching numbers.
JC Taylor insurance wanted to put a Target Master in it instead of rebuilding the original, couldn't do that!Comment
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