Rear leaf spring installation.

[Todd L.]

I am installing the rear leaf spring on my 74. I am doing this with the body off. The half shafts are not installed nor are the rear strut rods or shocks.
So do I have to have any of the above mentioned items installed prior to the spring? Once I am ready for the spring what is the best/safest way of attaching the spring to the outer bolts? I have read in previous threads that you do not torque anything down until all the weight is on the car. Is this true? how far down should I tighten the 4 bolts on my rear diff for the spring?


Thanks

Todd

[Jim S.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

I am installing the rear leaf spring on my 74. I am doing this with the body off. The half shafts are not installed nor are the rear strut rods or shocks.
So do I have to have any of the above mentioned items installed prior to the spring? Once I am ready for the spring what is the best/safest way of attaching the spring to the outer bolts? I have read in previous threads that you do not torque anything down until all the weight is on the car. Is this true? how far down should I tighten the 4 bolts on my rear diff for the spring?


Thanks

Todd

I'd suggest you have at least the strut rods installed before the leaf spring. Otherwise it will be a real challenge to get the strut rods in afterwards.
Snug the four bolt then tighten when car is back on the ground.

[Michael G.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

I've only done this once, but I wonder if you have enough weight (resistance) to work each end up to the outer connections. And then you will have nothing to restrict (shocks or half-shaft) the spring from arching unopposed.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

I am installing the rear leaf spring on my 74. I am doing this with the body off. The half shafts are not installed nor are the rear strut rods or shocks.
So do I have to have any of the above mentioned items installed prior to the spring? Once I am ready for the spring what is the best/safest way of attaching the spring to the outer bolts? I have read in previous threads that you do not torque anything down until all the weight is on the car. Is this true? how far down should I tighten the 4 bolts on my rear diff for the spring?


Thanks

Todd

Todd------


The spring must be completely de-arched (i.e. "flat") prior to tightening of the 4 spring center plate bolts.

[Mike E.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Before you start double check the length of the front center mounting bolts and make sure they are the correct length. If you bottom them out in the differential cover casting you could damage it. Also if you replaced the center bolt on the spring make sure you grind the head down so no thicker then about 7/32". The head of most replacement center bolts are to tall and will bottom out in the hole.

I used 2 nylon straps connected to a hoist to de-arch. This also was kind to my fresh paint. I had to also add some weight to the rear frame to get the spring flat prior to tightening the center plate bolts.





Mike

[John H.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Mike

Mike -

Minor item, but the heavy flat washers with the chamfered/radiused edges at both ends of the rear spring end link bolts are installed inverted - the rounded side of the washer edges should face the rubber cushion, as noted in the Assembly Manual, to avoid damage to the cushion.

[Mike E.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Mike -

Minor item, but the heavy flat washers with the chamfered/radiused edges at both ends of the rear spring end link bolts are installed inverted - the rounded side of the washer edges should face the rubber cushion, as noted in the Assembly Manual, to avoid damage to the cushion.

Thanks John,
I wondered about that when I saw edge of the washer. I missed it in the AIM. Easy enough to fix at this point. Glad I posted the pictures.

Mike

[Paul O.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Mike

Also the cotter key should only have 1 tail bent ether 90 deg or 180 deg the other tail should be straight out not bent. The cotter should never be cut and installation should be that the bottom tail should be the long tail of the key bent vertically if bent 90 deg or vertical then horizontal if 180 deg. Now that's anal.

John good catch.

[Mike E.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Mike

Also the cotter key should only have 1 tail bent ether 90 deg or 180 deg the other tail should be straight out not bent. The cotter should never be cut and installation should be that the bottom tail should be the long tail of the key bent vertically if bent 90 deg or vertical then horizontal if 180 deg. Now that's anal.

John good catch.

More good information Paul. I already fixed the front spring tags based on your comments in a different thread. I'm not fully understanding the cotter key installation though. I'll follow up with some new pictures when I fix the washers.

[Mike E.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Paul,
I made up a crude drawing of what I think you are saying about the cotter key installation. Would this be correct?



Mike

[Paul O.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Mike

Here is a photo of what appears to be correct and possibly an original factory install.101_1829.jpg This one is 180 deg bend 90 deg the tail would point straight down.

[Mike E.]

Re: Rear leaf spring installation.

Mike

Here is a photo of what appears to be correct and possibly an original factory install.[ATTACH=CONFIG]48965[/ATTACH]

Ok...Now I got it. I was running the nut too far down on the treads too. That could effect the ride height also the way I understand it. Sorry about Hi-jacking your thread Todd.

Thanks again Paul!

Mike