68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
After researching many posts I've decided to pull the motor & 4spd transmission together, from the side, pull the pass side wheel, buy the leveler, all great suggestions. This is my first BBC pull. Any other tips from those who have done this before? A couple Q's: a) unbolt 2 bolts on trans mount, disassemble ujoint & shifter linkage - anything else down at transmission to watch out for? b) While it's out what other work should be done? Car is a driver - does not need to be mint condition but I want to do whatever I can without spending lots of money. Speedo cable, new backup switch, tunnel insulation are on the agenda so far. Any tips/suggestions much appreciated. One last thing - several people said they did the job "in minutes" and it was easy but without elaboration. It does not look that way right now! Thank You...
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Gary, done a few that way, but with SB's. Make sure the engine lift can handle the extra lift going over the fender. I use a big cherry picker (8 ton ram) that can handle the weight extended farther to get the height. You don't want the lift to be bouncy with the BB & tranny on the end of it. Be sure to a balance bar so you can level out as you lift. Also change engine mounts and tranny rubber mount they get hard over time, mushy if in oil & gas. -
Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Did my 71 this way and it worked fine. I tried to remove as much weight first, exhaust manifolds, fuel pump, water pump, carb, etc.... I also removed the whole shifter, not just the linkage. Have a helper guide the engine / trans as you slide the hoist around (or vise versa).
Oh, don't forget to pull the distributor also. You may want to pull the starter also. I don't remember if it will hit the front cross member once you pull the engine forward.
Take your time and don't forget the pictures!
Tom1958, 283/245, White/red - Top Flight, October 2016
1960, Black/black, 283/230 4sp
1966, Black/Red, 327/350 4sp w/AC
1967, 427/390, 4sp, Goodwood Green, Coupe
1971 LS5, 4sp, coupe, Bridgehampton Blue
2007 Z06, Lemans Blue
Newsletter Editor, Delaware Valley ChapterComment
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Gary,
I just re-installed the small block and transmission as a unit back into my '69. The engine was completely dress right down to the ignition shielding. The starter was not installed. We used a hefty engine picker but found one glitch. Make sure that the chains from the balancer to the engine are long. We found that even with the nose of the hoist extended as far as possible (to a safe length for the weight), because of the long nose of the car, it would not roll back far enough to set the engine on the motor mount frame member. The longer chains allowed for 2 guys to push the engine far enough back so as to lower onto the frame properly. Here are a few pictures of the install.
JeffComment
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Thank you guys - especially for the photos. It's going to be a big project for me, but hopefully everything will go smooth with all this excellent input. GKComment
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Jeffery I don't know what you did to the transmission. I removed my engine from my 1970 with the transmission and did not even have to remove the hood, just a straight up removal and installation, easy one man operation.Comment
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
That's very impressive! Next time I have to do this I will get you to my place and show me how you did this. Seriously, I can't see how an engine and automatic transmission can be remove that way. The trans. extends about 8 inches beyond the firewall so it has to be brought well forward and tilted to clear. Without removing the hood you must have come at it from the side as was suggested above. I have seen engines go in straight down but this was without the trans attached. I'm very interested in more details and pictures if you have them.
JefComment
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Jim,
That makes more sense. I still am impressed that you could do this by yourself with the hood on. How did you get to the bolts that attach the trans to the engine? I thought of doing it that way but changed my plan when I tried to get to those fasteners and thought it was just as easy to leave it attached.
JeffComment
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Thanks everybody, everything went just fine. The leveler was the key component. I have a lift so was able to skirt the crane under the lift and avoid taking off front wheel. Lots of photos here for 'the next guy'. It was a little nerve wracking but no problem now. The last photo with me and my son shows how high and tilted you gotta be to get over that fender.
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Re: 68 Engine & Trans Pull - Need Final Tips
Jeffrey I did this about 1993-1994. I used a 2X10 large cut of wood under the turbo 400's transmission pan to support it on my floor jack, removed the bolts that retain the transmissions cross member and lowered or tilted the transmission to gain access to the bolts. Having removed just the transmission for new front seal a few years before I was familiar with dropping the cross member. I did not even disconnect and remove my factory air conditioner compressor.Comment
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