1960 Soft top frame

[Terry B.]

[Donald H.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

Terry, I had the same problem with my 1960 top frame. They are supposed to be straight and flat. I had to take mine off and straighten twice. My frame was so stiff that after I straightened them the first time, I bent them again trying to get the top frame out of the well and back up.

They are a poor design and bend easy. Check your TIM&JG page 23 under Bows, Pads & Straps. Last sentence of the first para "Check for bent main side rails in the area above the door window." It apparently is quite common for the top frames to bend in this area.

Don

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

Yes, straight/flat.

The top frame of the side glass is curved, so if the top frame is curved it will never sit over the window frame properly. This is because the top frame starts from a right angle, i.e. the windshield frame latch point. If the s/t forward top window frame is curved, it will sit further above the side glass at the front corner and leave a gap there. I find there's always a bit more gap at the front than I'd like and difficult to eliminate it completely. I've found the repro w/strip for '59-'62, by design, doesn't help this "feature".

My '59 has the early style('56-'59E) weatherstrip. with the integrated left front-side w/s to header to right front-side w/s I fabricated myself to emulate the originals. (4th pic) It seals much better than the later '60-'62 w/strips which by design, I feel are a poorer design at the corners as far as sealing is concerned. In my experiences, the more the top gets used, the more that front frame bow will bend on it's own as it bends every time you lift the top out of the well. It needs to be straight when first installed.

Rich

pics 1-3 later '60-'62 design, 4th is '56-59E design.
P7250034.jpg P8050115.jpg P8050114.jpg P1040003.jpg

[Terry D.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

So if your side rails are straight and you have a gap at both the front and back of the side glass frame, what is the solution to that? Thanks in advance!

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

Terry, I just took a few photos before I take off for the day....

As you can see in the photo the glass frame is curved at the front. This on a '60 I did with a restored frame, adjusted completely including side windows, and then installed the rag. If the top forward frame piece is curved to mate, it makes it worse. It brings it higher over the window. The glass stops at the upper "stop" and can't go up further. Dropping the rear of the stop adjuster on the sill keeps the back from fitting right, no solution.

If you or anyone has a solution I'd be grateful to know.....I've tried many things, spent hours taking the forward frames off, re-bending in the press, then on, off again to make straight in the press again, better fit. Maybe a combination of reproduction w/strips and other factors contribute, I really don't know.

My '59(last pic) with the thicker w/strip fits better. It's the original side weatherstrips with a fabricated filler for the corners. This to make it appear original from the exterior. The S/T frame on mine is the '56-59E type. It has a different forward frame and attachment method to the header. Maybe that also has something to do with it's better fit in the corners.

Rich
edit, doing edits with pictures changes the text format..FYI

PB170001.jpg PB170001.jpg PB170002.jpg PB170004.jpg

[Donald H.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

I assume you have the weatherstrip installed on the frame. If so, and you still have a gap at the front I'm going to suggest you leave it alone. I had the opposite on the passenger side of my 1960. My frame seemed OK when I adjusted it to the doors/windows. When I installed the soft top the passenger side for some reason ended up so low that the door was very hard to close with the window up. The only way I figured I could fix it was to actually take to top loose and do more adjusting which I did not want to do. Fortunately at the National judging in Hampton it closed good enough.

If it really bothers you, find some comparable material to the weatherstrip and add a filler layer between the frame and the weather strip. Once the retainers are in place and if you can install the top down over the edge enough it will not show. If your frame is to high at the rear of the window then you should be able to adjust the frame down more in the back.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

Don, Those are good ideas, and I basically tried those and more to get the gaps closed up. Nothing I experimented with helped. I don't want to add a filler. As mentioned and as you can see, my '59 is fine. it has the thicker w/strip filler.

As you saw different "features" on both sides of your car, my guess is that when these cars were new there were probably some that had the same problem/"feature".

I'm leaving it alone as it's a minor annoyance.

Rich
p.s. Where's Terry B. the OP? I hope we didn't scare him to badly.

[Donald H.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

Rich, my comments we actually aimed at Terry not you. I was attempting to reinforce that it's unlikely he will get the fit any closer without so creative work.

[Terry B.]

Re: 1960 Soft top frame

I'm here and am following your comments. These tips are going to save me a lot of time. I still have the original weatherstripping and will compare with current replacement. I'm not going to expect a perfect fit.
Thanks Donald and Richard!