Break in oil

[Terry M.]

Re: Break in oil

Newer member here, am I correct in assuming there is a break-in period on a new engine even if a break-in oil is not required? I was under the impression that the computer on the C7 limits the rpm until the car has been driven a certain number of miles. Just curious.

Due to vastly improved machining techniques and differing materials the break in requirements (if any) for modern engines is quite different than those of 30 or more years ago. When I picked up my 2008 Z06 I was told what Michael was told but my number was 500 miles. Perhaps the normal aspiration on the LS7 makes a difference, IDK. I have heard some knowledgeable people say no break in is needed on modern engines. Ask enough people and you will get every conceivable answer.

[Duke W.]

Re: Break in oil

More than the engine needs a modest break-in on a new car - brakes, transmission gears and particularly the highly loaded axle ring and pinion teeth need a little, too. That's why most owners' manuals tell you to take it easy and vary speed and load as much as possible for the first 500 to 1000 miles before you demand maximum performance.

Most manufacturers have long since eliminated an early engine oil change at about 1000 miles. You're good to go the normal change interval on new cars, and I don't think any extra additives are added by the plants - just the normal recommended oil.

A highway trip is a good way to get this done, except the brakes. The last new car I bought I had to take a trip to San Diego just after taking delivery - about a 250 mile round trip down I-5 from my place. I varied the speed from 55 to 65 MPH by lifting off at 65, letting the car slow to 55 and then accelerating moderately back to 65 and repeated this cycle the whole distance down and back.

Duke

[Mike E.]

Re: Break in oil

I've always been curious about running a freshly built engine on a Dyno. Do they normally run a engine for certain length of time prior to testing or just let it warm up and go?

Mike

[Michael J.]

Re: Break in oil

A highway trip is a good way to get this done, except the brakes. The last new car I bought I had to take a trip to San Diego just after taking delivery - about a 250 mile round trip down I-5 from my place. I varied the speed from 55 to 65 MPH by lifting off at 65, letting the car slow to 55 and then accelerating moderately back to 65 and repeated this cycle the whole distance down and back.

Duke

The brake burnishing procedure for the carbon ceramic brakes on a ZR1 are very involved, and brutal. Best done at a track (I did mine at Shadow Mountain), and you can't be shy about getting them so hot they smoke and fade near the end of the procedure. It is really not fun, but apparently necessary.

[Bill H.]

Re: Break in oil

The brake burnishing procedure for the carbon ceramic brakes on a ZR1 are very involved, and brutal. Best done at a track (I did mine at Shadow Mountain), and you can't be shy about getting them so hot they smoke and fade near the end of the procedure. It is really not fun, but apparently necessary.

I's the same for any brakes that are going to be use aggressively. Especially if you change pad compounds (like high performance street compound).

[Michael J.]

Re: Break in oil

When I picked up my 2008 Z06 I was told what Michael was told but my number was 500 miles. Perhaps the normal aspiration on the LS7 makes a difference, IDK.

The folks in Wixom told me to do 1000 during the build. It appears the supercharger impeller and bearing assemblies need extra time to wear in properly. Moderate acceleration runs are also recommended during that period, to get the boost up.

[Jim L.]

Re: Break in oil

The brake burnishing procedure for the carbon ceramic brakes on a ZR1 are very involved, and brutal. Best done at a track (I did mine at Shadow Mountain), and you can't be shy about getting them so hot they smoke and fade near the end of the procedure. It is really not fun, but apparently necessary.

Not fun????? Tell you what, next time you need to bed in a set of pads, call ME! Generous sort that I am, I'll do it for you. I promise not to grin while on track. Fair???

[Michael J.]

Re: Break in oil

OK, you're on. I will need new pads in probably 60K miles at the rate I am going, so I'll bookmark this and get back to you! But you have to keep it below 200 mph, OK?

[Dick W.]

Re: Break in oil

I've always been curious about running a freshly built engine on a Dyno. Do they normally run a engine for certain length of time prior to testing or just let it warm up and go?

Mike

Just warm it up, make sure the oil temp is up

[Jim L.]

Re: Break in oil

You've got a deal and I've got witnesses!!!!

200 MPH? That's the upper limit on the speedometer in my bride's track car (pictured in my avatar). I wouldn't know what to do at any speed north of that.

Jim

[Duke W.]

Re: Break in oil

Back when chrome plated top rings were the norm, a two hour dyno break-in similar to the procedure I used on the highway described in post #17 was commonly done prior to making power runs.

Nowadays, with moly faced rings (or a racing engine with plain cast iron rings), it's not necessary. Just fire the engine up, run it at no load for 20-30 minutes, primarily for "cam break-in" while you check for leaks and other anomalies. If everything is okay check the spark advance map, run through the idle speed/mixture adjustment procedure, shut it down to change the oil filter, top off the oil, refire, and let 'er rip.

Duke

[Roger W.]

Re: Break in oil

Unfortunately For Gas Monkey, they had to pay to have another cam put in and the chips cleaned out. When the engine rebuilder brought back the engine he told them to" use the correct oil this time." The oil may or may not have been the cause of the failure, but by not using the correct oil as instructed by the engine builder, they did not have a leg to stand on.

[Domenic T.]

Re: Break in oil

Duke,
Thanks for saving me the time to look up the specs. I agree that the distributor is the most neglected. I found shim washers that worked and stocked up years ago.
When my shop was in Huntington Beach (just down the road from you) I sent 2 distributors to a very well known place in Orange Co. to install pointless ignition and set the weights & can up. I told them while they had the distributors there to bush & space them. When I got them back the end play was the same as when I brought the distributors there. I refused them and they spaced them.
WHY did the factory send them out that way? I have shimmed so many that I am almost out of shims.

DOM

DOM

[Walter F.]

Re: Break in oil

After reading all about new car break in , driving at certain speeds, not going over certain RPMs on a new engine . Not making hard stops I am a little puzzled. Seems the folks at Nissan have a different way of doing things. They take each new $100,000 Nissan GTR and run it through a race track to make sure the car is doing everything the customer expects. These are brand new cars. Brakes are heated to the limits and they imply this is all done to make the customer pleased with the car he or she is getting. Seems these guys are breaking all the new car break in rules. ( See Nissan GTR documentry)

[Gene M.]

Re: Break in oil

Modern engines today are just that, modern. Modern engines have roller cams, a total different animal, The old 50's 60's flat tappet cams require ZDDP additive that most oils today do not have. So I will stick with the profession advice and use ZDDP additive or Brad Penn. You can do what ever you want with your new rebuilt engine. Oil cost is nothing compared to an engine tear down for a cam wipe out.

Just as a side note John Deere requires break in oil on almost all equipment sold and for engine rebuilds.