Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

[Jim P.]

I've owned a 64 Coupe (VIN #2474) since 1973. The attached picture shows the engine block pad when I purchased the car.

I'm hoping someone can help with the questions raised in that picture. Here's at bit more .... when I purchased the car it was set up as a 327/365, correct intake, Holley, air cleaner, camshaft, heads, balancer, idler, distributor, etc., here's some specifics on internals.

Vin #2474 .... approximate production date Oct 10, 1963,
Block .... casting 3782870, casting date .... A152, (std bore when I purchased),
Block Pad ID .... VIN # or VIN location defaced (see attached),
Block Pad ID .... engine assembly plant, date & suffix .... missing an engine assembly plant, remainder of ID .... 05I4RB, I guess the RB suffix translaets to a manual transmission passenger car from 62 thru 64,
Heads ..... casting 3782461, casting date .... I233,
Camshaft .... casting 3849347 (30/30 cam),
Pistons .... TRW 3866954, (std bore).

Questions,
- has anyone encountered a defaced engine pad before & what would be the reason(s),
- why a missing assembly plant,
- how does an accessories & internally correct 64 365 engine end up in 1962 block,
- I can imagine that the original engine was blown & rebuilt with the 62 block, but why deface VIN location & why no assembly plant ?

Any help / thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

[Timothy B.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Jim,

I don't think the stamp pad is missing a engine assembly plant code. The date on the block A152 tell me it's a Flint built block. The heads look like they are the original to your car with the date of later in 63.

Don't think to hard about it, someone damaged the original block and they built a 62 block to match the original. Does the tach have a high red line?

[Jim P.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Tim,

Shouldn't there be an F prefix to .... 05I4RB ? Yes it has the high redline tach and 2.02 intake valves as well.

Thanks,

[Dino L.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Jim, I think I can see an F that has been damaged by the weld stick on the vin stamp of that 62 cylinder case....someone just swapped the block....but....you can never tell for sure....if all the carb/distributor parts are dated Sept or October that would be good, do you have the original alternator with the big pulley and date coded properly.... Also do you have proper swing door oil pump, no power steering, correct water pump? Close ratio trans? Correct exhaust manifolds and fuel pump....L76 have many unique dated parts

[Timothy B.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Jim,

You are correct, there should be a F before the engine assembly date. I must have been thinking about SNOW not Flint. I am so tired of old man winter. :-(

If you are up for the job why not try to locate a nice 1964 Flint block, (870) with close dates and build it to stock 365 specs. Absent the original block that's as close as you can get, if you leave the pad broach marks you will only loose 25 points for the stamp date and 25 for the serial #.

[Jim P.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Dino,

I also thought I could see traces of the F but wasn't sure. I'm glad someone else saw it.

I've been trying to figure out this block since I took the car apart 18 years ago. I guess because most (maybe all) of the engine internals, externals and accessories at least superficially indicated 365HP and given the high RPM redline tachometer, I never questioned whether a 365 was original to the car.





Any way to check for correct vintage without the strap ??


I do have the original Holley. What/where should I look to check for correct vintage/dates ??

Over the years I've replaced the alternator, fuel, oil & water pump. I know I kept some (maybe all) of those old parts and will try to find and check. I did transfer the big pulley to the replacement alternator on the car now. The oil windage tray is in the car, so is the 6 qt oil pan, it still has the 2 1/2" exhaust manifolds though I've never checked the casting/date numbers. I replaced the original exhaust damper/riser years ago.

I'm not really sure what the original oil pump looked like, that's an interesting point. Do you have any pictures or numbers of the swing door pump to forward so I can double check the parts I still have ??

Also do you know the correct numbers for a 365 alternator, fuel and water pump ??

how can I tell if it's a close ratio ??





Thanks for the help,

Jim

[Jim P.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Tim,

Thanks for the reply. I've been wrestling with looking for a correct casting date block. Your suggestion is to deck/broach a replacement block but leave VIN & date stamps missing ?

Thanks,
Jim

[Loren L.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

If you're looking for the "reason" that part of the pad is destroyed, how about the pad reflecting the partial VIN of a 1962 Chevrolet that was stolen?

[Ara G.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

If you're looking for the "reason" that part of the pad is destroyed, how about the pad reflecting the partial VIN of a 1962 Chevrolet that was stolen?

that was my thought EXACTLY

[Timothy B.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Jim,

If you find a NICE 870 block that's dated correct for your car I would leave the pad alone and not deck the block. Don't worry about #'s, the original engine is gone but you will do fine following the above advice. You may make someone's day by returning that 300hp block back to the original car.

The holley should read 2818 with a date under that so post that info if you can find it. The 350hp car also has the same carburetor but I am not sure if the red line is the same so post a pic of the tach redline, someone may know better then me about the 365 redline.

If the car has a 4.11 and close ratio trans with 365hp engine it's a rocket :-)

[Jim P.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Loren,

Yes .... sorry to say that was my first & worst thought.

Thanks

[Dino L.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Let me try to answer your questions without distributor id straps, you can't I'd it, however, the L76 has a vacuum advance can labeled 236.... I think ( duke can tell you about the 2" rule and how the L76 cam needs attention on the right can.....regarding the Holley the date code is stamped on the air horn and the correct metering block number stamps are seen by turning the carb upside down.....you have an early car....a properly dated 2818 is rare......unless restamped....first year for a corvette Holley. I think the fuel pump is a 40083, water pump is a 608 and alternator is a 668.....all from memory......if you had the big alternator pulley check your old alternator date and number....swing door is in regard to the oil pan, which you said is 6 qt 365 hp design....does your car have power steering? L76 could not be ordered with that because it interfered with oil pan. You have the 6500 red line tach, do you gave 80 psi oil pressure gage? Close ratio can be determined by lack of groove in input shaft spline....I think. Also based on rpms and mph given the known 4:11..... My 64 has the same set up. 2 1/2" is a good sign....Also did you check if your car has remnants of a fuel injection car? There are all sorts of tells for that.....hope that helps Jim.

[Jim P.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Dino,














Thanks again for the help and will reply on the last 3.

Jim

[Timothy B.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Jim,

The water pump should have the external bypass and carry a part # ending in either 609, 175 or 326. My guess is 609 or 175.

The carburetor is interesting because I have never seen one dated on the opposite side from the 2818 stamp. The date is fourth week September 1963.

[Dino L.]

Re: Need help ... 64 engine pad ID

Jim, Your Holley date code and locations and stampings are identical to mine......same date......must have batched them......mine is an early car.