Re: C1 Fuel Injection Octane needs.
I have been reading this thread from the beginning with interest. Long thread with many many valid points made by most if not all posters. Below is a few things I have learned in the last year with my fuel car. Yes that is right, I have only owned a fuel car for a year in my life. Wanted one since I was a kid and almost had myself convinced not to get one from the fuel and driveabilty stories I had read. Anyways, here it goes.
Car is a 65 fuelie that I believe has never been apart. Still has the original .018 head gaskets on both sides. More then one knowledgable NCRS members have looked at and believe the intake gasket to be original also. Unit itself was gone thru a few years ago by Chris Wickershim in Pasadena. He then tunes it to run on pump premium.
As to the octane question posed by the OP I have had zero issues with detonation. Drove the car in 100 plus heat with engine temps near 210 with no noise.
Percolation at those temps is another story. Car drives fine when on the road but does not like to idle. Have to keep the revs up to 2000 or more to keep it running. Have even been stuck in traffic having to do that. Problem is the temps keep climbing while doing this. Back on the open road and it cools back down.
I did fill up with 16 plus gallons of VP racing fuel last July to help with percolation. Percolation did not disappear completely but was not as bad. Two things I did note while running on the race fuel. First off the car did not run as well overall on the race fuel as it did on the pump gas. I attribute that to the unit being tuned to run on E10. Second off, after running the race fuel to empty I noticed a completely different color on the exhaust tip. Color was a light blue to tan look and very clean. Wiping with fingers left almost nothing on the finger tip. Running the E10 the exhaust tips are a sooty black color and transfer to finger tips very easy.
I have become more accostumed to starting characteristics of me car on the E10 and can live with it. I do take John D.'s advice and drive my car on a regular basis. Easy to do in So. Cal. I learned a long time ago that the worst thing you can do to a car is let it sit for extended periods. Newer cars seem to tolerate it better, but classics need to be driven and maintained.
As to my car, I have already Top Flighted and plan on a PV then Duntov. Once that is accomplished I will probably go thru the insulation of the fuel line process to help with the summer driving.
My advice to anyone hesitating to buy a fuel car because of the horror stories is to go for it. Buy as original as you possibly can and if you need to get the unit worked on, do so by any of the reputable rebuilders. You will love the way the fuelie performs if it is anywhere near original. Just a blast to drive!
I have been reading this thread from the beginning with interest. Long thread with many many valid points made by most if not all posters. Below is a few things I have learned in the last year with my fuel car. Yes that is right, I have only owned a fuel car for a year in my life. Wanted one since I was a kid and almost had myself convinced not to get one from the fuel and driveabilty stories I had read. Anyways, here it goes.
Car is a 65 fuelie that I believe has never been apart. Still has the original .018 head gaskets on both sides. More then one knowledgable NCRS members have looked at and believe the intake gasket to be original also. Unit itself was gone thru a few years ago by Chris Wickershim in Pasadena. He then tunes it to run on pump premium.
As to the octane question posed by the OP I have had zero issues with detonation. Drove the car in 100 plus heat with engine temps near 210 with no noise.
Percolation at those temps is another story. Car drives fine when on the road but does not like to idle. Have to keep the revs up to 2000 or more to keep it running. Have even been stuck in traffic having to do that. Problem is the temps keep climbing while doing this. Back on the open road and it cools back down.
I did fill up with 16 plus gallons of VP racing fuel last July to help with percolation. Percolation did not disappear completely but was not as bad. Two things I did note while running on the race fuel. First off the car did not run as well overall on the race fuel as it did on the pump gas. I attribute that to the unit being tuned to run on E10. Second off, after running the race fuel to empty I noticed a completely different color on the exhaust tip. Color was a light blue to tan look and very clean. Wiping with fingers left almost nothing on the finger tip. Running the E10 the exhaust tips are a sooty black color and transfer to finger tips very easy.
I have become more accostumed to starting characteristics of me car on the E10 and can live with it. I do take John D.'s advice and drive my car on a regular basis. Easy to do in So. Cal. I learned a long time ago that the worst thing you can do to a car is let it sit for extended periods. Newer cars seem to tolerate it better, but classics need to be driven and maintained.
As to my car, I have already Top Flighted and plan on a PV then Duntov. Once that is accomplished I will probably go thru the insulation of the fuel line process to help with the summer driving.
My advice to anyone hesitating to buy a fuel car because of the horror stories is to go for it. Buy as original as you possibly can and if you need to get the unit worked on, do so by any of the reputable rebuilders. You will love the way the fuelie performs if it is anywhere near original. Just a blast to drive!
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