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1956 to 1962 Reproduction Soft Top Rear Bow Modifications
Re: 1956 to 1962 Reproduction Soft Top Rear Bow Modifications
TEST 1 Restore auto-saved content from Thursday (note had broken links to photos to test text first)
Error 403 first time I tried to Submit, now deleted all broken photo links
2nd submit with JUST text Error 403 also
THis with no text to begin testing......
It worked, now add text a little at a time....
I've used several reproduction bows the last few years on restorations, and although it's great to have availability, a few things are different which require some modifications if you want them to look right for judging. I did this last night on a '59 top frame I restored in preparation for a new original type vinyl top.
I had a nice conversation with Jerry "Sully" Sullivan from Sully's Tops yesterday. I had a few install issues due to a prior owner's mis-installation of the decklid latches on this Hardtop only car converted to add a Soft Top. I'll address that later also.
They're made of extruded aluminum as opposed to steel which was used originally. One of my issues with their use is that they do not include recesses for the 6 T-Nuts nor are there top edge reliefs for the rear window straps. They also are a little thicker than originals, and do not come pre-drilled for the lower filler weatherstrips. I discussed my ideas with Jerry to mill out the Tee-nut areas. He said he has had a few calls about spinning Tee-nuts and he asked for my photos of my mods when done. Nice guy to talk with.
Re: 1956 to 1962 Reproduction Soft Top Rear Bow Modifications
I've used several reproduction bows the last few years on restorations, and although it's great to have availability, a few things are different which require some modifications if you want them to look right for judging. I did this last night on a '59 top frame I restored in preparation for a new original type vinyl top.
I had a nice conversation with Jerry "Sully" Sullivan from Sully's Tops yesterday. I had a few install issues due to a prior owner's mis-installation of the decklid latches on this Hardtop only car converted to add a Soft Top. I'll address that later also.
They're made of extruded aluminum as opposed to steel which was used originally. One of my issues with their use is that they do not include recesses for the 6 T-Nuts nor are there top edge reliefs for the rear window straps. They also are a little thicker than originals, and do not come pre-drilled for the lower filler weatherstrips. I discussed my ideas with Jerry to mill out the Tee-nut areas. He said he has had a few calls about spinning Tee-nuts and he asked for my photos of my mods when done. Nice guy to talk with.
First, here are a few shots of a rusty old original '56-'60 bow. As you can see, the recesses for the Tee-nuts are there to prevent them from showing up as a protrusion after the vinyl is installed. The vinyl tops have a thick plastic guard where it's stapled to the rear bow but not hard enough to hide the Tee-nuts.
Re: 1956 to 1962 Reproduction Soft Top Rear Bow Modifications
Recess(each side) for the side-window strap. The strap staples to the inside tack strip then wraps underneath then up to the #4 bow tack strip at the inside recess of the #4 bow where the top pad sits. The strap is a triple thick vinyl. The original relief is to make the transition smoother as it passes over the rear bow.
Sheet metal screws for the filler weatherstrip originally as it's thin steel there. Repros are thick aluminum so you should drill & tap for machine screws.
Here is the assembly and parts kit after media blasting and prime/paint with Gloss Black.
Here is the reproduction bow and the original. The repro is a tad bigger in overall girth.
I drill and tap the 2 sides for the filler weatherstrip using #8-32 screws.
The Tee-nuts are just pressed in. They may spin if the screws ever get corroded also. One spun on me when I test fit a swing latch.
I removed the Tee-nuts and marked the strap relief area after transferring the measurements from the original.
I set up my mill and using a 9/16 end mill bit I shaved the 6 areas to a depth of the thickness of the Tee-nuts. This also will act as a nut-stop when fastening or removing the screws, especially in the future if there is a bit of corrosion in the threads. A thumb press on the flat and it'll lock in on the inside edge of the recess.
I also milled the strap area and filed it smooth at the upper relief corners like original.
Here is a photo of a 1960 top I did a few years ago using a reproduction rear bow. You can see the telltale of the Tee-nuts and the side straps at the sides of the rear window. At that time I removed some strap thickness by cutting one of the 3 layers but it was still obvious. You really can't see the bow from the inside as it's covered by the weatherstrip so the Interior judges may not notice the repro bow. A sharp exterior judge would see the T-nuts sticking out like a sore thumb and probably add a dot or two to the sheets for deduct.
So I decided that on the 1959 I'm restoring to modify a brand new reproduction rear bow to make the assembly appear as original with only a slight trace, if any, of the Tee-nuts and window straps when completed. All 6 T-nut areas done and the strap areas modified with reliefs. Strings are to hold the bows in position for assembly to the car for adjustments and preparation for the vinyl top installation.
I installed the frame assembly and adjusted it to the existing side windows. This car has a Hardtop and the windows were adjusted to that first. I then removed the Hardtop and when setting the Soft Top frame I keep the side windows fixed with their adjustments and stops. The Soft Top frame MUST be then adjusted TO the side windows. This makes it a bit trickier because there is only so much adjustment allowed. This one took a few tricks to make it fit right.
Here it is after frame adjustments. Side windows fit well and doors open and close properly against the weatherstrip. When the vinyl top material goes on it's important not to stretch it too much as to loose the side window fit, as well as pulling too hard on the windshield frame.
Pads stapled and screwed to the bows.
After I get the top installed I'll add some photos of the "hidden" T-nuts.
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