327 Distributor installation

**Duke W.** · March 30, 2003, 05:55 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

You should always remove the dist. with the groove on the balancer at the BASE TIMING SETTING on the timing tab, NOT TDC!!! Of course, you know you are on #1, not number six from the position of the rotor.

Did you disassemble the dist.? Even if you didn't, verify that the dimple in the drive gear is pointed in the same direction as the rotor tip.

Also, verify that the #1 wire is properly indexed on the cap IAW your service manual.

Went reinstalling, the gear should mesh with the oil pump drive taking into account the shaft rotation as you removed it. Once it's back in position, rotate the dist. until the points just open. This can be done visually, but it's best to use an ohmmeter. With the balancer groove on the proper initial timing point on the tab and the points just on the verge of opening, your base timing should be within a couple of degrees of spec allowing the engine to start so you can set it with a timing light.

If you cannot rotate the dist. enough to open the points before you get vacuum can interference (with the balancer groove at the initial timing point on the tab), then something is amiss.

Duke

**Jim38243** · March 30, 2003, 06:11 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Doug, I am not sure what you mean by BASE TIMING SETTING. When the groove is at zero on the tab isn't that TDC? The distributor was completely restored to show quality and tested on a machine by a professional. All I would need to do now is install and set the timing, dwell was already set. All the wires are installed exactly as the AIM shows and since my posting the message I pulled the distributor out and turned the crank so the groove was at zero on the tab and rotated the oil pump so that when I dropped the distributor back in it is pointing at #1 or darn close and it meshed with the oil pump groove. AM I correct? Thanks

**Duke W.** · March 30, 2003, 07:24 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Base timing - initial timing - whatever you want to call it. If you have a '63 300 HP engine it's 8 degrees BTC. Set your balancer groove on the tab corresponding to the intial timing setting, NOT TDC, and remove and reinstall the distributor. If you have any doubt, verify that the engine is at TDC #1 and not number six by observing valve movement or remove the spark plug and feel for the compression stroke.

While the distributor is out, check that the drive gear is properly indexed per my previous post regardless of who assembled it!!!

As I said, if you set the balancer groove on the initial timing spec on the timing tab, drop in the dist. and can rotate it until the points just open without vacuum can interference it is installed correctly. If not, there is either an indexing problem such as the dist. drive gear or timing mark/harmonic balancer, or the dist. is installed one or more teeth off.

Duke

**Craig S.** · March 30, 2003, 08:37 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Jim - Dukes advice is right on as always, one thing worth checking also is that the balancer ring has not come loose and moved resulting in improper timing mark indexing. You can prove this buy installign a piston stop in spark plug #1 and setting it carefully so you can "feel" the piston reach TDC, then check the timing mark on the balancer and tab to insure it really reads TDC. Otherwise, you are shoot in the dark, at least as far as timing the engine. If it has moved, now is the time to change the balancer before it does some real damage when running....Craig

**Gary S.** · March 30, 2003, 10:26 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

This is an interesting discussion because I have a VERY limited experience with removing distributors. I pulled the engine, a few years ago, on my 66 and used the book "How To Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy" as the guide. I had never done anything like this before. They have a fool proof method for pulling and installing the distributor.

So now I hear that I should have installed the distributor with the timing mark on the corresponding setting, and not at zero? Whoa dude! I love this site because I learn new things constantly. If one installs a distributor, with a freshly rebuilt engine set at TDC by the engine shop, on the zero timing mark, shouldn't you have enough movement in the distributor to be able to time it correctly? Is there a universally accepted procedure to install a distributor in an engine using your procedure? Anyone care to spell it out for those of us (me) that are not wise to these ways?
Gary

**Craig S.** · March 30, 2003, 10:38 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Gary - I think you are referencing Dukes post versus mine, I was discussing checking for ring slip on the harmonic balancer. But, by setting the timing at the base (initial) timing as Duke mentions, then subsequently removing the distributor, working on it, and returing it back for installation, rotating it until the points just break, you basically time the engine statically as close as possible without a timing light. Dukes comments about the gear dimple are very important, since there is an odd number of teeth on the gear, and rotating it 180 degrees out of phase results in a 1/2 tooth shift, and you run into trouble with the vacuum cannister hitting the intake manifold or ignition shield at times, since it affects the rotational position to get correct timing. I had this happen myself once, and this was the problem, I learned this trick here as I don't recall seeing this "dimple" advice in the Cherolet service or overhaul manuals. I am pretty sure that they knew this at the distrubutor assembly plant though....Craig

**Duke W.** · March 31, 2003, 12:48 AM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Allow me to expand a bit on on Craig's explanation.

First, when we install the distributor we want to set it as close as possible to the recommended initial timing point so the engine will start right up.

Second, I think we all understand that the plug fires when the points open.

If you install the distributor with the balancer groove at the initial timing point on the tab, say ten degrees, install and rotate the distributor until the points just open using a multimeter, you will probably be within a degree or two of the proper timing, and the engine should start right up.

If you set the balancer groove at TDC on the tab and use the multimeter to rotate the dist. until the points just open it will be in the range of about -2 to +2. Will it start? Yes, but probably not as well. Of course, you can use a little Kentucky windage and eyeball in five degrees of distributor rotation in the advance direction, but unless you do this all the time, it's tough to visually recognize this small angle of rotation.

I don't even use a multimeter. With the balancer mark at the intial timing point on the tab I just rotate the distributro until I visually see the points just begin to open then tweak it back a hair until they just close. The engine always starts and I'm often within two degrees of the proper timing and never more than 4 degrees off.

Duke

**Gary S.** · March 31, 2003, 06:58 AM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Thank you gents. I realize that the initial thread has shifted a bit but you both give excellent and understandable information.
Gary

**Jim38243** · March 31, 2003, 03:53 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Thanks Duke it makes sence to me now. I just have one more problem to deal with.
This distributor is for a 375 HP Fuel car and the BASE TIMING should be set at 12 Degrees BTDC, except the tab only has 8 marks above 0 degrees and 8 marks below zero. I believe each mark represents one degree so do I just guestimate for 12 degrees because it will be off the tab? Thnanks again for everyones help.

**Scott Marzahl** · March 31, 2003, 06:01 PM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Either buy a timing tape that is marked off in degree increments from a speed shop or use some math and scribe your own degree marks on the balancer. Remember there are 360 degrees in a circle and the circumpherence of a circle is defined as 2*Pie*R. Divide and find degrees per inch.

**Duke W.** · April 1, 2003, 02:12 AM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Your timing tab should be the same as on my '63 L-76.

It has a "0" and and "A" five hash marks up from and a couple of more hash marks beyond the "A". Each of these hash marks is TWO DEGREES, not one, so 12 degrees should be the first mark beyond the "A". (BTW, The "A" means "advance to indicate the advance direction.)

You're going to have another problem. Unless your L-84 is a very early '64, it has a very aggressive centrifugal curve that starts at about 700 and maxes out with 24 crankshaft degrees at 2350 engine revs, and because it will be tough to get the engine speed down to under 700, you are a great candidate for a dial back timing light. The "second design" 64-65 L-84 distributor is 111070 or 064 if it's a TI. I "upgraded" my engine to this "070" centrifugal curve and the corresponding 8" vacuum can circa 1968.

With a dial back you just set the dial at 36-38 then rev the engine until the mark on the balancer quits moving, which should be by 2500, then rotate the distributor until the balancer mark is at "0" on the tap and lock down the distributor. Of course, you do this with the vacuum can signal line disconnected. It's just a lot easier to set the total WOT advance (initial plus full centrifugal) this way to be sure your maximum WOT timing is correct. Once the distributor is locked down and I've verified that the timing is still correct I rev the engine to about 6000 to insure that it does not overadvance at high revs.

Without a dial back light, my recommendation would be to tie up the centrifugal advance with a big rubber band so you can set the intial timing at a speed that will provide more stable operation - say about 900 to 1000.

Finally, reconnect the vacuum advance and adjust your idle speed and mixture as necessary.

Duke

**Jim38243** · April 1, 2003, 10:14 AM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Duke, My car was built in December 1964 and it has the 111070 distributor, it is not a TI car. Yes the tab is as you described. Also I did the math and figured out they were two degree markings and I verified that the dimple was pointing the same direction as the rotor. My base timing is now set at 12 degrees BTDC. Don Baker is the man who rebuilt my distributor (he did a beautiful job) and he said he put the 8" vacuum can on it. When I disconnect the vacuum line from the can shouldn't I plug it or just leave it hang? My next challenge is to find someone I can borrow a dial back light from. It will be a few more days before I fire my screamer up but thank you for all your help!!!!!!!!

**Mike M.** · April 1, 2003, 11:43 AM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Snap-on sells the timing lite you're in need of. great little device-no shop should be without one.not all that e3xpensive when i got mine about 5 years ago.good luck mike

**John H.** · April 1, 2003, 11:59 AM

Re: 327 Distributor installation

Jim -

When you disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor, stick a golf tee in it - otherwise you'll have a vacuum leak; my clubs don't see much use, but the tees do

327 Distributor installation

327 Distributor installation

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Debug Information