running engine in car with no trans

[Mike Cobine]

Re: BE careful !!!!

Bob has the best solution now that I know you are searching for an oil leak. You would want to be close enough to see oil leaking and that is much to close to an exposed flywheel. If you need the crank turning, pull all the plugs and run the start motor to spin the engine. Then the pressure can be made safe with a priming pump and the engine can turn slowly to keep this relatively safe.

A solid flywheel you could only see something if you lay under the flywheel and look between it and the block.

Do you get up close and personal with table saws and no guards? well this is a table saw with a grudge - it won't just rip thorough you, it will grab you and pull you in.

The wooden blocks to brace the engine will fall out. Heck half the time they fall out trying to get a transmission installed, so the vibration of a running engine will take them out quickly.

If you insist on running the engine, the best and safest approach is a stand designed for running engines, such as those start up stands or a dyno stand.

Also consider an automatic flex plate and be sure the bolts are torqued.

Remember though that a oil priming tool must have the collar that closes the passages in the block so oil flows to the top of the engine. One of the best, and cheapest, is an old distributor with the gear removed, a tubing collar install in the gear's place, and a bolt welded to the top of the shaft. Then use a half-inch drill to get some real pressure and find that leak.

Oh yeah, get a video, send it to me, and put my name on the insurance form where it says BENEFICIARY.

[Clem Z.]

you guys worry too much

i have been doing things like this all my life and the only time i injured myself was working on my ATV and cut off the end of my finger. i knew what was required to be safe working on engines but got careless working on something as simple as a ATV. the best way to look for oil leaks is with dye in the oil and a "black light". also you do not have to be under the car when running the engine. clean all surfaces good and then run the engine at speed for a while and then after you shut off the engine you can look for the leak.

[Mike McKown]

I agree

I can't believe all this conversation.Put the engine in the frame and fire it up! No big deal. If the front engine mounts have the bolts in them, it is the same as a final install as far as torque of the engine is concerned. The only thing I think you have to be concerned about is the rotating flyuwheel. But, I see no difference between doing it this way and doing it with the transmision installed. If this bothers you, put the bellhousing on the engine. One thing I would add. I don't think I would try this with an automatic flywheel to start. I would use a manual flywheel.

Mike

[David W.]

My conclusion

It's good to hear the variety of opinions. I did not plan to stand uner the car to watch for the leak. I certainly won't know based on the feedback. What I wanted to avoid was the extra work of reinstalling the trans only to find the rear seal was improperly fitted and have to uninstall everything and start from scratch. However, if the extra work will save my life or a limb, it's probably time well spent. I am leaning towards reinstalling the bellhousing, brace everything proper, run the car for a short period, and then check for any leaks. I would not keep the car elevated in case any problems develop. Better yet, I will gladly host an unofficial NCRS seminar in my garage to entice some experts to the scene - free Beer!

[Jack O.]

Re: My conclusion

I'm going to pass on running the engine with not trans. I just wanted a better look at things but the worse that can happen is I have to drop the pan again, not the trans. I had to drop the trans again because when I installed it I think I forced it into the pilot bushing causing it to bind. In any case, when I pulled everything out (for a second time!) I noticed the oil leak. It's not the rear main seal. I replaced this as well as the pan gasket with a expensive Fel Pro one piece. I'm pretty sure it's leaking on the back between the side and where it goes over the rear main, but not in the corner where rtv is applied.

This Fel Pro one-pice gasket is really thick. Does this require you to increase the torque on the pan bolts?

[John H.]

Re: My conclusion

No - the Fel-Pro one-piece gasket has metal torque-limiting sleeves molded into it at each bolt location to prevent "over-enthusiastic" torquing from distorting the gasket and causing a leak.

[Mike Cobine]

Re: you guys worry too much - yes/no

Clem, if I seem over-cautious, it is because there is one very big difference between what _I_ do and what I tell _someone else_ to do on a public, written forum.

Maybe this guy does it fine, but all it takes is someone around to read this, and lose an eye or finger and lawyers have a way to find the deepest pockets. In my case, that would have to be NCRS, but either way, it isn't something any of us want.