Perpetuating Stupidity?

[Patrick H.]

Bezel Differences

Joe,

The repro bezels are easily discernable by the font thickness of the "VOLUME" and "TUNING" words. It's especially easy to pick them up since the "U" in tuning usually has some slag filling in the bottom of the "U". On my originals, the lettering "appears" to be thinner than the fat lettering used in newer pieces. I'd say it is the same font and likely the same tooling, but at least from the examples I've seen age has taken its toll on the lettering. Now, if Trim Parts has cleaned up the tooling in the last 6 mos to a year, then it might be different. If you wish, I could get pictures together by later in the week.

Otherwise I have yet to be able to tell a difference. Use some black paint to touch up the slag in th "U" and most judges won't be able to tell.

I spent a LOT of time trying to find a good condition bezel for my 72. I gave up, and just left the original one in place. I adjusted it so that the infamous crack near the top was very difficult to see, and was not deducted any points in Regional or National judging this past year.

Patrick

[John M.]

Re: Good advice

Jerry, W
While I agree with you in the abstract of detesting people hiding behind made-up name on the internet, I also have seen the other side of the issue!
For years, my user name on Ebay was my full Email name which had allways been my full name followed by my @.com. I wanted everyone to know who they were dealing with. I do not frequent any discussion boards where I do not use my full name as well, and I make every effort to tie a name to the handles that everyone seems to go by. That being said, I had to change my user name at Ebay to not include my Email address and full name, due to the constant fraud attempts that I was subjected to. When I contacted Ebay about the problems, they said the only solution was to change my user name so that addresss harvesting software could not get a fix on me. It is a sad situation when you can't use your real name or Email address because of all the people trying to take advantage of you!

Regards, John McGraw

[Todd H 26112]

Re: Good advice

Interesting comments John and appreciate exactly where you are coming from. It does raise 2 points for what they are worth...

1) there are those folks on ebay (not you - I can tell) that use an ebay ID that also happens to be an email address (one option is to go get a 2nd email address just for something like ebay either thru your ISP or hotmail or whatever...). They sometimes do this to encourage folks to drop them an email directly & not sent thru ebay's servers - it is very easy for them to both accept and work 'on the side' deals depending on the product(s) they are offering and the market they are in. This will not likely be true of folks offering more unique or one of a kind stuff that is more likely to benefit from auction fever of course.

2) w/ respect to harvesting - on this forum your full name or your first name and unique NCRS ID# are wide open to the public for scrutin, harvesting or data and information collecting purposes. (yes I understand the email is hidden but if folks think harvesters are being deployed that are only interested in email addresses - might be surprised at the amount of seemingly innocuous information that can be associated w/ folks).

I understand the reasoning for requiring full names or # and by and largely agree w/ it on many levels. I find it an elegant solution for the time and refreshing in that it promotes individual responsibility.

Given the juggernaut of harvesting for information online and the increasing scrutiny applied to personal information issues - is this prudent? Whether or not - that is the bottom line price you pay to be involved in NCRS online.

Personally I don't have a problem w/ 'handles' as long as the process to 'register' is still one that requires a full name or first + # just as it currently is. That 'full' information is availalbe to admins (they approved the account the first place based on the info right?) etc or if you choose made available to everyone. Thus YOU are determining whether or not your affiliation with NCRS is available to 600 million people on the web or just fellow online community members or just admins. Configuring the board to not be externally viewable w/o a valid login ID would be another step to protect privacy in lieu of handles.

On the other hand, why limit ourselves to members involved online? Why not a directory of all members? Or can I, a nobody, at least call up Cincy and get contact info for any member I request - not just officers and leaders?

Personally being associated w/ NCRS, though mildly embarassing at times, personally is harmless for me - so it's no biggee for me personally one way or the other regarding my publicity or privacy. But I'm only 1 person. Then again I also thought the same thing of medical records or gun club affiliations

Sorry to rant off topic a bit there John - you just hit two buttons on that one - great post - much appreciate your and folks like you in the hobby!

[Chuck G.]

Re: Good advice

Agree with John. I too had to change my EBAY "name", on the recommendation of EBAY. I used my EMail address, which was/is my name @aol.com. I was constantly subjected to SPAM, but more importantly, constantly subjected to phony EMails from fraud EBAY sites trying to get my password, credit card info, etc.

SO...I now have a new EBAY name "marylandchuck". Chuck

[Mike Yager]

Re: My number is in the phone book

Yes but it isn't associated with anything such as what you bid on and are interested in. The phone number and name are valuable to spammers and telemarketers when its associated with your interests and buying intentions.

Also, you don't need to post your name and number in the phone book. I want the same choice on ebay.

[Chas Kingston]

Re: Good advice

In Re: NCRS names

I used to get bombarded w/ virus/worm attacks. Since NCRS has stopped listing my e-mail addy, I haven't gotten any. So, who says that this site wasn't being "harvested"?

Geezer

[Joe L.]

Re: Bezel Differences

Patrick-----

I was not aware of the differences with respect to the lettering on the reproduction bezels. It is VERY likley that the problem is created by the wear and age of the tooling. I do not know if Trim Parts has improved the tooling, or not. At some point, other deterioration will either force them to refurbish the tooling overall or discontinue manufacture of the part. If the choose the latter route, I'll bet you'll be surprised to see just how precious that the reproductions become.

By the way, I wonder if your original bezel could be repaired by some careful application of JB Weld on the rear portion of the bezel? If you could jig it up so that the pieces are positioned in their exact original position and then apply the JB Weld to a well-roughened surface, I think that it might end up being as strong as new. Of course, it wasn't very strong then, but I think that you could re-achieve at least that strength.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Bezel Differences

Joe,

I've thought about that or a similar repair. But, at this point the 72 is done with Flight Judging and I already have a new late GM issue bezel for the 71. It will be interesting to see if Trim Part's recent purchase of that tooling has changed it.

Patrick

[Jack H.]

Weld Repair...Yes & No.

The center bezel was intended to break (you can find words/music to this effect in the Chassis Service Manual where advice to mechanics on proper R&R proceedures is given) with the sides of the pot metal casting made intentionally narrow/weak at the upper 1/3 point.

Typically, the bezel gets butchered by well-intentioned mechanics who haven't read the CSM book and grab the top of the bezel and PULL to free it from the upper lip of the dash pad. The CSM warns NOT to remove this way...grab and pull from the center of the bezel using a free hand to raise the lip of the upper dash pad for clearance....

The problem with doing a 'weld' repair is two fold. YES, you can reinforce from the back/side of a broken bezel, but here's the Catch-22.

(1) When the original bezel fractured from overstress as designers intended it to do, the parting line of the crack is typically strained (basic ductile pot metal). When jigged together for weld/gluing, there will almost always be some residual 'pucker' leaving a repair telltale.

(2) The repair 'pucker' can be easily handled on the face of the bezel, just spot sand, artificially re-texture and repaint.

(3) The 'rub' comes with the repaired bezel's outer edge/lip line. It was selectively flash chromed along the edges to effect a cosmetic 'highlight'. Trying to repair telltale 'pucker' on the chrome plated outer edges of the casting is typically futile. Senior interior judges know the propensity for these bezels to break and they EAGLE EYES on the judging field in the assy's know weak spots (do I hear an amen, Reba?)....

[Patrick H.]

Re: Weld Repair...Yes & No.

Yeah, and Reba didn't judge my 72 at Hershey or Seven Springs, so I was safe.

PH