C2 - Car pulls to one side when braking!

[James W.]

My 64 convertible pulls to the left when the brakes are applied. I can feel it through the steering wheel which indicates that it is a problem in the front brakes, from what I've been told a read about it is in the right front brake?

In the past 2 years I've replaced or rebuilt all wheel cylinders, replaced all the flexible rubber brake lines at each corner of the car, replaced all the brake spring hardware for all the brakes and installed new brake shoes both front and back, bled the brakes and adjusted them per the factory shop manual. The car did same thing before I did all this work. What could be causing the problem? I need to correct this before going to Salt Lake City in July.

Thanks,

James West

[Don 42616]

Re: C2 - Car pulls to one side when braking!

James, I havn't a clue re: your brakes but curious how far to S/L/C From your starting point ??? Good trip Don

[Gary C.]

Re: C2 - Car pulls to one side when braking!

James

I am certainly no drum brake expert, but I do not believe you can say for sure the proplem is absoutely on the right side. Either the right does not brake "enough" or the left brakes "too much". You have done most everything, but one omission I see...Have you had the drums turned? One of the most common sources of this problem is a drum out of spec.

[William V.]

Re: C2 - Car pulls to one side when braking!

James

This sounds like the right shoes do not fully contact the break drum because the inside of drum may have a larger diameter than the shoes. Thus the brake shoe only contacts the drum in the center. Years ago when we did a break job where the drums were cut we would place the new shoes in the drum to see if all the shoes surface contacted the drum. If not the shoes were cut mostly in the center, so there was full contact between the shoe and the drum. Not enough shoe surface contacting the drum could be your problem.

good luck

Bill

[Richard W.]

You might check your front suspension parts.

It is always possible that something is loose/worn causing the problem. Just a thought.

[Paul Reynolds]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

Check the condition of your control arm bushings. My 64 did the same thing. The lower control arm bushings were shot.

Drive the car very slowly and apply the brakes with someone watching the left front wheel. See if they can see any movement of the wheel with relation to the body. Before I fixed mine, there was appreciable movement of the wheel when I applied the brakes. Kinda like the wheel stopped before the rest of the car. Car pulled to the left all the time.

[James W.]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

The brake drums have been adjusted at least three times since being rebuilt. The drums were turned and the front control arm upper and lower bushings were replaced about the same time the brake were rebuilt. I have found nothing loose anywhere.

I'm guessing that the drums are out of spec based on the brake shoe to brake drum surface contact wear pattern.

Thanks,

James West

[Paul Reynolds]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

That could very well be the problem. In the "old days" brake shoes were ground to match the curvature of the drums. It's a lost art these days.

[James W.]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

Paul,

Mt dad and I had that very same conversation last night about how grinding/arching brake shoes was a lost art in today world. I am going to take the drums aoff again and check the drum spec to see what it measures. Now all I have to do is post on here to find out what the maximum diameter is.

Thanks,

James West

[Duke W.]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

The maximum drum diameter is 11.090". If you have replacement drums this data might be in the drum casting. Check for drum roundness and inside diameter.

Also be sure that the self adjusters are working properly.

I'd also like to know your drum casting numbers, and whether or not you have evidence that the car was originally equipped with base brakes or J-65 metallic brakes.

Duke

[James W.]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

Duke,

The drums on my '64 convertible are the originals that have 90k plus miles on them. The car is a low option 327/300 car, no J-65 option.

As far as checking the function of the self adjusters, what should I be looking for? They were disassembled, cleaned and lubricated before being put back on the car.

Any comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

James West

[Duke W.]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

The self-adjusters operate when the brakes are applied in reverse (base and J-65, Z-06/J-56 drum systems have forward activated adjusters), and there is a lever that moves the star wheel. You should be able to manually activate this lever and verify that it moves the star wheel one notch.

It might also be a good idea to make at least a half dozen brake applications while traveling in reverse to be sure the adjustment is correct. When changing shoes the initial adjustment is made manually, then the brakes should be applied while traveling in reverse 6-12 times to allow the self-adjusters to make the final adjustment.

The self-adjuster should be lubricated with a non-grease product. Something like Lock-Eze, which is spherical graphite in a petroleum distillate emulsion is probably a good choice.

When you get a chance and have the wheels off, I'd really like to get the casting numbers, and whether or not "Max dia. 11.090" is stamped of molded into the casting. With only 90K miles there's a very good chance that the drums are original.

Duke

[Joe C.]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

James:

If both drums have been turned, and you are able to accurately measure the ID of both with an inside caliper, and they are both relatively close in diameter, then the "brake shoe radius" issue is moot, since, as the linings break-in, they will have the contact area on both sides (providing that the above is true). I cannot recall, ever having this kind of problem due to "brake shoe radiusing" question. That was just too high tech, and frankly unnecessary, in the neighborhood where I grew up in.
In addition to the worn front end component issue, which you have apparently already addressed (and I also assume that this includes front tyre pressure, and front wheel bearings), the two most common causes of your problem are:

1. Contaminated lining material (grease, brake fluid soaked, oil, etc).

and

2. Improperly functioning self adjusters. There were many times when I would retrofit back to manuals.

Joe

[Joe C.]

Insert "SAME" before "Contact" *NM*

[James W.]

Re: You might check your front suspension parts.

Joe,

The new front brake shoes were new and were not contaminated with grease, brake fluid or any cleaning solvents, etc. The tire pressure is identical at all 4 wheels, set at 30 psig cold. The wheel bearings where removed cleaned and repacked per the shop manual less than 3 weeks ago. The car still pulled to the left prior to the wheel bearing work.

I'm wondering if the brake adjuster on that wheel is not working properly? I will begin by taking it apart, and do a clean and inspection to see what I find.

Thanks,

James West