clutch

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  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 42936

    #16
    Addendum

    I should also have added, if you previously had a 1-7/8" release bearing installed and the clutch worked with this bearing, then you almost certainly have an incorrect and longer clutch fork ball stud installed. It is not clear to me if the 1-7/8" bearing is one that you installed and found would not work or if it's the one that you removed from the car at the time you performed the clutch replacement. If it's the latter case, as I say, I don't see how it could have worked, at all, without the longer ball stud. To be honest, I don't see how the longer release bearing WITH the longer stud could have worked in a Corvette, but I know that the longer release bearing will not work in a Corvette with the short, Corvette-correct stud.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Noel K.
      Expired
      • November 1, 2004
      • 84

      #17
      Re: Addendum

      I've lost count on what chapter i should be on, but here is where i am regarding my clutch issue:

      Have again pulled the transmission. removed the pival ball stud and found it to be the 1 1/2" ball stud - so am assuming i can rule that out. have measured the clutch adjustment rod from under the dash to the "z bar". It's 18 inches and should be the correct one. Have also measured the rod that runs from the "z bar" to the thrust fork. It is also the correct length - 10 1/4" (although the o.l. is supposed to 10 9/16". Bell housing is the correct GM part number.

      Checked to make sure the clutch fork was installed properly on the 1 1/4" high throw out bearing and it was.(keep in mind the throw out bearing orignall found in the car upon dissasembly was the 1 7/8" throw out bearing.

      The clutch fork appears to be the correct one with the clevis pin attachment.

      I have ordered a new "z bar" -referred to as a bell crank assembly by Paragon where i ordered it. Will next try to compare the two bell crank assemblies - mime and the new one come ( length, "clock position" of the two arms, etc. If this does not reveal any discrepancies, I am at a loss. Perhpas install a hydraulic clutch or a powerglide ? (just kidding)

      Obviously there has to be an incorrect part somewhere, but i am running out of options. I am pondering reinstalling the "taller" throw out bearing, but that is not the correct fix according to web site posts and all GM information I have found.

      I must be missing something, but at this point I am losing things to rule out. The only remaining part to compare would seem to be the bell crank assembly (z bar )

      As before, any additional thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Incidentally, the car is original color, goldwood yellow. However, is dangerously close to being renamed "lemon" yellow !

      Thanks all who have offered their thoughts and insight.

      Noel Kendll

      Comment

      • John H.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • December 1, 1997
        • 16513

        #18
        Re: clutch

        Noel -

        What brand and configuration is the clutch pressure plate? Diaphragm type? Flat fingers? Conical or bent fingers?

        Comment

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