Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

[Jim V.]

Success....no hospital trip this time

A bit nerve racking but the top ball joint seperated after about 20 whacks. Got the spring out eventually with no problems. Now I have set things up to free the lower ball joint shaft from the knuckle, but it refuses to let go even after some mighty whacks. I guess next stop is the fork..May be less damaging than the hammer.

Thanks

[Jim V.]

Seperating tool...

I borrowed this tool set from my local FAPS. The tool pictured on the top left is great for the tie rod ends. The jaw appears to be too thick to work on the ball joints however. Jaw thickness prevents it from slipping between the steering knuckle and ball joint. I did a quick look, so maybe if give it a bit more force to push back the rubber seal. Joe L. mentioned a tool by Old Forge #2544 which may be of similar design. Can't seem to locate a pic of that tool. Still would like to find the least damaging tool in lieu of hammers and forks.

[ken edmunds]

Re: Success....no hospital trip this time

It is a lot easier to get the spring in and out of the pocket if you remove the lower control arm rebound bumper-it is just 2 bolts and gives more room.

[Terry F.]

Re: Seperating tool...

That is a good tool set if you can get it on the ball joint. Once it is in place, crank it down and then smack it with the hammer. I hate to smack that stuff so hard. Can't be any worse for it than using a propane torch to heat the nuckle a little bit. If you smack that thing too much, you will disfigure it. Terry

[Terry F.]

Re: Seperating tool...

Personally, I thought about it. I recall them tool sets looking good but not working that well in many instances. I would simply go to a auto parts store and get the pickle fork. Wedge it in place one time real good (that might be enough to pop it), if not it will put a lot of tension on it. Then, smack the side of the knuckle on the flat spot. With the tension on it from the pickle fork, it should break loose. Just my humble opinion and I have done it that way for years but I also heat it with a propane torch and Dick busted me on that one. If you pound the pickle fork in by itself to try and separate it, you might really gouge up the knuckle.

[Jim V.]

Re: Seperating tool...

I like the way you think. Off to the FLAPS for the fork. I already disfigured the knuckle a tad.

Thanks

[Terry F.]

Re: Seperating tool...

Jim,

To tell you the truth. I have used those tools before. They look good but they are not made the way they look most of the time. I don't believe they are special forged steel with hardened steel bolts which would be needed to survive the abuse. If you smack the pickle fork in there, it will put a lot of traction on that union between the knuckle and the balljoint. If you ring that knuckle on the flatt, it should pop. You may have to repeat. I would also give it some heat but remember what Dick says. Terry

[Dick W.]

Re: that makes sense....

If you are fortunate enought to have an air compressor, you can buy a "pickle fork" for your air chisel. Speeds things up considerably and you do not pound on your hands too much this way

[John H.]

Re: Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

Note that the front coil spring is to be seated at the TOP, where the stop is, in the frame pocket; the hole in the recess in the lower control arm has nothing to do with spring seating - it's just a water drain hole.

[Mike McKown]

If you haven't done the other side yet,

Knock the bottom balljoint loose BEFORE you remove the spring. When you take the tension off the lower arm by removing the spring, the assy becomes loose and floppy and your hammer blows are absorbed by same.

Are you backing up one side of the spindle with another hammer? You gotta' hit it. Can't play with it and no glancing blows.

[Terry F.]

Re: that makes sense....

My poor first finger on my left hand has taken a bad wack or two. I like your chisel hammer idea. I think all the front end shops use them. I forgot they existed. when I am thinking, I use gloves and I grab the fork with vise grips. If I miss the vise grips take the wack.

Take care, Terry

[Chuck R.]

Re: That's the deal Mike!

I started with the bottom joints first and let the latent energy of the spring help the process.

My original 1968 ball joints gave it up after only a couple of solid strikes.

When I did this, I made good and sure that my floor jack was only an inch or so below the control arm just in case the castle nut stripped out. In my case on both sides, the nuts held. I only backed them off a full turn to start with.

I used a ratchet strap run through the lower coils to keep things honest and had it running straight across to the opposite side of the chassis to help shape the spring back into the pockets when I pulled it all up together on re-assembly.

Not that I'm a whimpy or anything mind you, but I did as much of the work that I could from the back side..........just in case.

Things can go bad in a blink if you don't anticipate for the worst case.

I can't agree more with Dick. Stay away from the knuckle with any kind of high heat including mapp torches. Forged parts that are under alot of stress don't take too kindly to re-heating Jim.

Regards,

Chuck

[Mark #28455]

i have used this

I have one of these made by KD tools, works like a charm!
Mark

[Wayne W.]

Re: i have used this

Not to be nit-picky but you get no help from the spring on the lower joint. The spring holds that one in. You can remove the nut anytime, all the way. The upper one is the one that you better for sure leave the nut on.

[Joe L.]

Re: Seperating tool...

Jim-----

The Old Forge tool I mentioned is very similar to the tool that is the uppermost one in the picture. However, you don't show a picture of the actual tool. Was it missing from the set you were loaned?