Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

[Jim V.]

I am in the process of disassembling my 65 front end and need some advice on safely removing the front control arms and front coil spring. I have used a pickling fork before but as a result of some research in the archives on less damaging procedures I am interested in other methods.

1. There whas a Dec 05 which involves a two hammer approach to freeing the top ball joint from the knuckle using the downward force of the spring coupled with some liberating whacks with a BFH. This makes geometric sense but, how do I seperate the lower ball joint from the knuckle?

2. I am also interested in other safety measures in dealing with the compressed spring. I have taken past posters advice by compressing the spring upward using two thirds of an internal spring compressor (treaded rod and one hook) routed up through the shock tower hole. This is a nice compression technique. Note that the motor is already out of the car and the springs are therefore fully sprung, so using the car weight to compress the spring is not an option; not to mention the car is up on a kwik lift. The pic shows the threaded safety cable through the spring up around the front crossmember. This is ok until I have to lower the lower control arm to remove the spring.

Anyhow...your advice is appreciated.

[tom444634]

Re: Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

Jim,

I use a ball joint seperator and a BFH. A few sharp hits and it's off. I know people who don't use a seperator and just bang away on the knuckle to get the job done. I have tried that myself and thought it was kind of harsh so I invested in a seperator.

Do the top first, then the bottom, then release the spring with the compressor. Take note of the spring positioning in the lower control arm for re assembly. You want to get the end of spring coil back in the same position it was in to start with.

Tom

PS put the safety strap through the last few coils of the spring and the lower control arm that way it won't hinder you when the spring is uncompressed but will still secure it to the control arm just in case something lets loose.

[Mark S. Lovejoy]

Re: Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

Jim,

There are some very good tools available for these jobs. Google "front end rebuild tools" and see lots of options, I think I got my kit from Amazon.com.

Be very careful when removing the front springs, they are under a great amount of tension even with the suspension at the limit. There is enough kinetic energy to easily inflict serious injury.

I've used a 3 foot length of 5/8" threaded rod with a thrust bearing/washers/nut on top at the shock mounting hole and a 3/4" thick 2" wide 4" long piece of steel that is drilled and tapped to receive the rod at the lower A arm. Grease upper portion of threaded rod and assemble rod through upper and lower shock opening. Tighten until the upper A arm is lifted off the frame and then break apart the lower ball joint.

Hope this helps.

Mark

[Greg L.]

Re: Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

Jim,

When I took my springs out I used the very same type of spring compressor that you have. I tightened it up until the spring was compressed enough to move up and down between the control arm and the frame...this way you know that it is compressed enough.

Loosen the upper balljoint nut a few turns and use the two hammer method that you mentioned with the proper weight hammer. I couple, if not only one good whack, and the knuckle will fall onto the loosened nut. I then removed the nut so that the spring could be removed. Then loosely reassemble the knuckle to the upper balljoint with it's nut and raise the lower control arm enough so that the UPPER control arm is not resting on it bumper. I used a floor jack for this but you can also lift it yourself and support the lower control arm with a jack stand or 2x4s or what ever. Then(with the lower balljoint nut removed) use the two hammer method again and if it's like mine, the weight of the upper control arm and knuckle will be enough to let it separate on the first or second blow. This was how mine came apart and I never had an engine OR body on it at the time!

Hope this helps.

Greg Linton
#45455

[Jim V.]

Re: Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

Thanks Tom. By ball joint seperator are your refering to a pickling fork?

[Jim V.]

Thanks Mark....

I am using a similar method with the internal coil spring compressor. I have take the top hooks off and have run the shaft of the compressor up through the shock tower. The spring is being pulled up into to the tower.

Great idea on chaining the bottom of the spring to the lower control arm to avoid interference with decompression of the spring.

[Jim V.]

that makes sense....

Thanks Greg. So...just the mass of the upper control arm and knuckle was enough to force the knuckle down from the ball joint stud. Now I see!!!!!!!!!!

I am off to giver her a whack!!

ps. I will safety chain the bottom of the coil spring to allow decompression of the spring once the upper ball joint is free and clear.

If I dont respond within 24 hours call 911....

Thank you!

[tom444634]

Re: that makes sense....

Jim,

Greg makes a good point about backing off the nuts but not removing them until the knuckle breaks loose. This way the assembly won't "pop" apart. After the assembly is loose, remove the nuts and things come apart real easy.

Have fun!

Tom

[Wayne W.]

Re: that makes sense....

I have taken hundreds of these apart and I can tell you that the spring will not jump out or be under much pressure when the lower arm is lowered to remove the spring. But if you remove that upper joint without jacking the lower or compressing the spring first, you are bucking for an excedrin headache.

[Terry F.]

Re: that makes sense....

Jim, you can also use a propane torch to heat the knuckle a bit before hitting with a hammer. Basically, all the advice that has been given is how I do it. I let the spring do the work or the weight of the car. You need to be careful if you plan on re-using the ball joints to protect them from the heat. One big wack is better than a bunch of little one's. Just my opinion. The pickle fork works good too. Terry

[Rob M.]

Re: Seperating ball joints from steering Knuckle

Is there somewhere out there a picture and a vendor of such a spring compressor tool? I would be interrested to see how it is constructed and how it works...

greetings,
Rob Musquetier (NL)

[Dick W.]

Re: that makes sense....

It is not advisable to use heat on any steering components!

[Jim V.]

Heat on steering stuff...

Dick...what about using a Mapp torch to burn out front or rear control frame bushings....?

[Jim V.]

bob...inside spring compressor tool pic

This pic show the spring compressor installed inside the coil spring. I am using 2 of the three parts. I removed one set of claws since I inserted the threaded rod through the top shock tower. Instead of squeezing together the tool is now compressing the spring up into the shock tower. These inside spring compressors are readily available. I have mine on loan from FLAPs. They cost about $30.

[Terry F.]

Re: that makes sense....

Interesting, I guess my backyard mechanics are not always that great an idea. I have always used a propane torch on stuborn ball joints without issue. I would never use a acetylene torch though. I figure with propane there is so much steel to absorb the heat, I can't immagine it causing a problem. But, on the other hand why take a chance with steering components. Well, I guess I will stop doing that one. Take care, Terry