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Couldn't tell much from their FAQ's other than it's not a solvent based product which leads one to believe it's water based.
Personally, after lots of research and consulting other NCRS members who've coated their floors, I selected Sherwin Williams Armorseal 1000. Armorseal 1000 is a real two party epoxy and can be mixed in any color. My experience so far after a year, is that it's impervious to every thing I've spilled on it including aircraft hydralic fluid and battery acid. Have moved heavy equipment such as my 100 gallon air compressor, which slightly scratched but did not dent or chip the surface. Cleans up easy with 409. Armorseal finish is ADA rated for traction when wet.
Other NCRS members advised that color chips, while can act as dust catchers unless there's a top coat applied.
My shop floor was relatively new and free of grease except when the lift high pressure hose blew the day before I planned to install the Armorseal 1000. Acid etched and then rolled on the Armor seal with a good paint roller. Let it dry for a week. Do it yourself cost was $.75 per square foot.
One thing a fellow NCRS member pointed out that is a great idea is to beveal cut the garage door lip at a 45 degree angle. This permits rolling things in and out of your garage alot easier and not having to fight the 1 1/2 inch rise.
I see you went with a tan color. Did you pick this color to hide dirt? I would like White on my floor if for no other reason I work in the aviation field and we use white and I like it. It does require more cleaning to keep that looking fresh look.
Went with tan for two reasons; 1 - to easily identify dropped fasteners, 2 - for color. Not sure if white has any UV issues like clear does. Kent Keech who posts here frequently did his floor in a black and white checkboard within the last year. If Kent doesn't post a response, look him up on the profile list and send an e-mail with your question about white.
You want to stay away from white on epoxy floors. ALL epoxies will yellow with exposure to UV, and you will be unhappy after a year or so. Urethanes yellow less, but they can still be a problem. I have had Armorseal 1000 down for several years now. I chose a very light beige, and it still shines pretty good, as you can seein the pic. I will topcoat it later this year, just to freshen it up. You can have it made in pretty much any color you desire unlike so mnay floor coatings where you get about 5 color choices. I treat my floor like crap, and it still holds up well. About the only real wear spot is where my rolling stool sits in front of my workbench.
Okay Gary, you plugged one for me. Now I'll post 2 photos but I must let other know that after using PPG Aquapon which has a potent odor for the first few hours, I would use Sherwin Williams Armorseal 1000 for my next shop/garage.
My floor pictured here and next post has three thin coats of white and, after laying down painter's tape, one coat for the black squares. Since I rarely open the garage door and have little direct sunlight, no yellowing gas occured at all to the white squares. If I were to have a single color floor, Gary and John have the right idea with an off white-light tan (or light gray) color.
Good luck with your floor system but go with a commercial type epoxy, not the Home Depot / Lowes versions.
Kent #6201
Kent 1967 327/300 Convert. w/ Air - Duntoved in 1994 1969 427/435 Coupe - 1 previous owner 2006 Coupe - Driver & Fun Car !!! NCM Founder - Member #718
Mine was done a little over six years ago by Home Pro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) after steel shot-blasting the moisture-barriered and insulated cured slab; 2-part industrial solvent-based epoxy, tinted a light beige. It's indestructible, no automotive chemical fazes it, doesn't chip, tires don't stain it and hot tires don't lift it, and it's super-easy to keep clean. Still looks like it was poured yesterday.
If you want to find out about all the different types of "epoxy" coatings, which ones are really quality, where to buy them (and where NOT to buy them), what surface preparation strategies work and which ones don't, spend some time in the "Flooring" section of www.garagejournal.com - terrific site that covers all aspects of garages, from construction to tools.
I second what the posters are saying about two part epoxies. I used Amershield two part on my farm shop. The only thing that I found would damage it was welding slag. It would leave black spots. Could do about anything else. Did it my self and cost was about $.60 sq. ft.
You got that right! I have weld splatters on one half of my shop. I now do all my welding in the other shop that does not have a floor coating on it. I don't care how carefully you put welding blankets down, you still get splatters!
I like restored Corvettes and resto-mods both. The 59 was a total basket case with a rusted-out frame, no engine, trans, or rearend. I bought it for the boxes and boxes of NOS parts that came with it, as I was restoring a 60 at the time. I finally got tired of this hulk of a body sitting in storage, and decided to do something with it. It was pretty rough, but it cleaned up nice.
I am doing a midyear convertible right now that was a real hulk as well. The only panels that I did not replace on it were the doors, body tub, and decklid. It should be on the road by late spring if I can find time to work on it.
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