A Corvette Restored to NCRS Quality...
Has to LOOK like a brand new factory Corvette EVERYWHERE; NOWHERE IS EXEMPT. Outside, inside, underneath...anything that is visible has to LOOK like it did originally. Powdercoating and/or galvanizing changes makes the part "thicker", puts a radii on sharp edges that never had them, smoothes metal surface texture, and obfuscates the detail of weld beads and splatter.
If something non-original to the car is hidden inside the engine, behind the wheel covers, or any component normally installed on the car, you get a pass...it's not judged. But if it's inside the engine, and it changes the SOUND, such that it doesn't sound like it did when it was new, you will be penalized at some judging level.
Removing rust...If you are doing a frame off restoration, the best way to remove rust is to remove it completely down to "white metal" with a media blast cabinet, or in the case of a frame or other large components, contracted sand blasting. Chemical cleaning can be thorough, but it's efficiency is accompanied by other headaches: it has to be neutralized before refinishing, and this is usually done with a water-based solution that causes the clean metal to begin rusting anew with gusto. Storing cleaning chemicals in your work area is also fraught with peril...the vapors off a leaking container will rust the everlivin' **** out of any steel within a few feet radius; experience talkin' here.
Patrick hasn't removed his rust because he's not restoring the car, he's keeping it original...when he's having it judged, he applies a temporary "moisterizing make-up" to the aged area; it doesn't last, but it looks better for a short time.
Has to LOOK like a brand new factory Corvette EVERYWHERE; NOWHERE IS EXEMPT. Outside, inside, underneath...anything that is visible has to LOOK like it did originally. Powdercoating and/or galvanizing changes makes the part "thicker", puts a radii on sharp edges that never had them, smoothes metal surface texture, and obfuscates the detail of weld beads and splatter.
If something non-original to the car is hidden inside the engine, behind the wheel covers, or any component normally installed on the car, you get a pass...it's not judged. But if it's inside the engine, and it changes the SOUND, such that it doesn't sound like it did when it was new, you will be penalized at some judging level.
Removing rust...If you are doing a frame off restoration, the best way to remove rust is to remove it completely down to "white metal" with a media blast cabinet, or in the case of a frame or other large components, contracted sand blasting. Chemical cleaning can be thorough, but it's efficiency is accompanied by other headaches: it has to be neutralized before refinishing, and this is usually done with a water-based solution that causes the clean metal to begin rusting anew with gusto. Storing cleaning chemicals in your work area is also fraught with peril...the vapors off a leaking container will rust the everlivin' **** out of any steel within a few feet radius; experience talkin' here.
Patrick hasn't removed his rust because he's not restoring the car, he's keeping it original...when he's having it judged, he applies a temporary "moisterizing make-up" to the aged area; it doesn't last, but it looks better for a short time.
Comment