Tweet
I'm about at a point where I can crank up the '60 after a year of restoring. My question is a simple one. Since I have all new fuel components including tank, lines & fuel pump, I'm wondering what I'm in for in getting fuel to the carb the first time. Will just turning over the engine be sufficient for the pump to gather the fuel from the tank. Any ideas on how long this should take and how to conserve the battery. I'm thinking maybe cranking with the spark plugs removed. Any opinions or suggestions?
-
-
Re: C1 - Starting Up a New Fuel System
Bob, I've started my car with the fuel system dry from the fuel pump forward and it only took a few seconds. I think If you have a freshly charged battery that you can get fuel to the carb in 30 seconds of cranking. You might want to do ity in stages to keep down the heat and strain on the battery and starter. -
Re: C1 - Starting Up a New Fuel System
Thanks Ed. I can always count on you. Do you have an opinion of cranking with the plugs removed?Comment
-
WARNING!!!
always fill the carb float bowls with gas through the bowl vents before trying to start the engine because you could wipe out a cam lobe while waiting for fuel to get to the carb to start by turning over the engine.Comment
-
Re: C1 - Starting Up a New Fuel System
I always fill the carburetor bowl with fuel through the vent tube. This way I can pump the throttle a few times and the engine starts up immediately. If the engine is a fresh rebuilt, I am not fond of it cranking for any length of time before it starts.Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
In addition to Clem's point, if you crank the engine without plugs, you also have to disable the ignition system, or a spark will light off the fueal air mixture you are now pumping out of the spark plug holes.Comment
-
Re: C1 - Starting Up a New Fuel System
If you have a new engine, you don't want to crank it any longer than necessary. Personally, I'd leave the plugs in because it's going to start quicker that you expect. A little fuel in the fuel bowl will certainly hasten things.Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
bill is correct as i have seen a pit crew guy get burnt when the fuel came out the plug holes and the plug wires were still active.Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
I wouldn't even do that. I received burns on hand from lawmower cranking over and the friction of the piston in the cylinder wall set off the fumes and some gas on my hand (dumb). Just be sure no fumes are present and you are not anywhere around the engine.!Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
Just fill the float bowl through the bowl vent tube and it will crank right up, and will have adequate fuel to run until the fuel pump gets fuel to the carb; you do NOT want to crank it at all if your engine is fresh with a new cam and lifters, or you risk damaging the cam. You want it to fire immediately and run for 20 minutes at 2000-2200 rpm to break in the cam, without idling at all and with no premature shutdowns due to overheating. Make sure the cooling system is full, with no trapped air (fill it through the thermostat opening in the intake, then top it off at the radiator), the shroud and fan are in place, and have a box fan on a chair in front of the grille in case you need additional airflow for cooling to avoid premature shutdown.Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
Some very good points were made here. I have a question. Will the cam, etc. be damaged when cranking a run in engine when it takes a few cranks to start. Particularly my `62 with an AFB carb which seem to drain when not driven for a week or two.Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
we are talking about a brand new cam and lifters. after the breakin period there is no problem. your gas is boiling and evaporating from your carb. if you are not into all orignal a heat shield between the carb and the manifold may help this problem. if you have a aluminum intake blocking the heatriser crossover is the best solution.Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
Gary, this problem only is if a new cam shaft is installed. A new cam needs to seat its self with the lifters. Once seated a few revs of cranking sholdn't kill the cam.Comment
-
Re: C1 - Starting Up a New Fuel System
I started my '66 after a 23 year hiatus (not of my doing), which is similar
to what you have in front of you. I oil primed the engine and basically treated it as if it were new.
My problem was that no matter how much cranking occurred,
I could not get gas to the carb, even after filling the bowls. The car
would just run out the bowls and be done. What I did was to disconnect the line at the fuel pump, use my MightyVac© to pull a large vacuum on the line, and voila, I had more gas than I could shake a stick at. Additionally, even though
I had replaced the line, gunk flowed into my coffee can rather than into my
carb. Once the fuel "ran clear enough" I hooked it back up the fuel pump by
pinching the line downstream to stop the fuel flow and connected the line
quickly at the fuel pump. I did spill some fuel, so no smoking please!
I thought I read somewhere in N.A.'s book about the factory pressurizing the gas tank on cars that would not start when new. I just modified the idea with
what tools I had at hand.Comment
-
Re: WARNING!!!
Now I am scared to death. I am going to have my engine rebuilt by a local machine shop with all new parts including new cam, lifters, pistons, connecting rods , everything. Am I going to do damage after instaliing this in my 68 when I try to fire it up for the first time? How did the factory get around this problem? What if my engine doesn't start on the first crank, will I damage something after 6 years of restoration and many dollars? The further I get into this project the more I think I shouldn't have done this restoration thing.
Any advice other than sell my 68 piece by piece?Comment
Comment