Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

[Timothy B.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Glenn,

Could the washer that goes under the castle nut be to thin, I believe the correct washer is thick.

[Gary R.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Glenn,

Could the washer that goes under the castle nut be to thin, I believe the correct washer is thick.

Tim,
you're correct it is a thicker, cupped washer in fact, so it should be a new one used during rebuilding.

[Page C.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Glenn,
I measured 2 spindle flanges this morning. One was 1.915 (like yours) and the other was 1.917. Also measured the #3820224 spacer. A NOS measured 1.667. Two used ones measured 1.669.

[Steve G.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Look at where the seal is riding on the yoke without the shim between yoke and brg. If it is sitting correctly the issue is on the outboard side of the flange. Sounds like the washer given the measurements Page came up with.
Steve

[Page C.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

The cupped washer is a little hard to measure because of the cupping but it's about 0.200 inches thick on the outer edge. The GM part number for the washer is 3839832
Page

[Glenn B.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Thanks Page, looks like my spindle flange is not an issue and the washer is also fine (it is .197) however it is no longer visibly cupped. I'm not sure if the "cup" adds much actual clearance - or just adds tension (like a lock washer). Doesn't seem to me that the height of the washer cup should be necessary to provide clearance. The unthreaded portion of the spindle currently hits the bottom of the washer about .030 before the bearings are fully seated (without the second shim).

I think I'll investigate the bearings next, they looked good - so I had not originally planned to replace them.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Thanks Page, looks like my spindle flange is not an issue and the washer is also fine (it is .197) however it is no longer visibly cupped. I'm not sure if the "cup" adds much actual clearance - or just adds tension (like a lock washer). Doesn't seem to me that the height of the washer cup should be necessary to provide clearance. The unthreaded portion of the spindle currently hits the bottom of the washer about .030 before the bearings are fully seated (without the second shim).

I think I'll investigate the bearings next, they looked good - so I had not originally planned to replace them.

Glenn------


I always recommend replacing the bearings. If one is going to go through the effort of doing this operation, then I think it only makes sense to replace the bearings. Bearings don't cost all that much.

[Glenn B.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Yeah Joe, I now have a better appreciation for the term "mission creep". Just back from picking up some bearings....

[Steve G.]

Re: Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly

Thanks Page, looks like my spindle flange is not an issue and the washer is also fine (it is .197) however it is no longer visibly cupped. I'm not sure if the "cup" adds much actual clearance - or just adds tension (like a lock washer). Doesn't seem to me that the height of the washer cup should be necessary to provide clearance. The unthreaded portion of the spindle currently hits the bottom of the washer about .030 before the bearings are fully seated (without the second shim).

I think I'll investigate the bearings next, they looked good - so I had not originally planned to replace them.

What you want to pay close attention to is the outer races in the spindle support. If the bearings packed up at some point the races may have turned in the support. Guys will glue them in place with Loctite but they have ground far enough into the support that they are too close to one another.
Steve