Distributor Timing Problem

[Stuart F.]

Since I rebuilt my distributor last month, I have not for the life of me been able to get it set up right. If I drop it on #1 it is too far retarded. If I advance 1 tooth it is too far advanced. I've walked it around about ten times. I can't get it to time up between the manifold and the coil/spark plug wire bracket. I've had the distributor out several times to check the dimple vs. the rotor. It is correct. I've been doing this for 50+ years, but this one has me stumped.

Any ideas?

Stu Fox

[Mike T.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Stu - Any chance you re-pinned the drive gear 180 degrees from where it was before you started? Was the 'dimple' in the same place?
(Edit - musta read your thread too fast, didn't spot you put the lower drive gear back in the same position relative to the rotor).

[Bill W.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Stuart , put the distributor in the position it belongs and move the oil pump shaft to fit . remember the dist. moves when the cam gear is engaged .

[Edward J.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Stu was the Cam replaced with a after market replacement?? I had seal power and had to rotate the dist. gear 180 degrees from the dimple to get it indexed correctly, so I could time the engine correctly.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Mike and Bill;

Thanks for your responses.

I pinned the gear exactly where it was before, i.e. dimple in line with the rotor tip. I'm very conscious of this because I made the mistake once before many years ago with this same distributor and check it very carefully. That said, it truly acts as though it were 180 degree off. I'm tempted to re-pin the gear that way much against my better judgement, but I have to do something to get it back running right. Right now, if the VAC is up tight to the spark plug wire bracket, it is still about 20+ degrees initial. I physically can't retard it anymore. One tooth the other way and it will start, but is very retarded.

As I said, I've walked distributors around for many years, i.e. apply C.W. torque to rotor by hand as you lift distributor to jump it to the next tooth without loosing contact with the oil pump shaft. I can do it with my eyes closed, just by feel (this is important cause I still can't see too well even after my recent cataract surgery).

The only thing different about the distributor done during the rebuild is I tightened up the gap on my gear end play to .010". I'm using the same weights, springs and rotor (to start with). I intended to re-time for total advance, but I never got that far.

Thanks again. Guess I have to sleep on it some more. I was just hoping to get it running right during the next couple days before our weather gets hot.

Stu Fox

[Timothy B.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Stu, Are you sure the plug wires are indexed in the distributor cap correctly.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Ed;

My engine is original. Never been apart. I have a degree tape on the balancer and bar the engine over for timing initially and for valve timing (L-76). During the re-build of the distributor, I did put on a new drive gear, but changed back to the original on advice from others on the TDB to not mess with the wear match. I checked that again today to ensure that is what I did (trying to cover all bases).

Stu Fox

[Edward J.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Stu as a last resort it would not hurt to rotate the gear is has not adverse affect on the engine only the adjustment of timing throw position, If Tim's advice falls short.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Tim;

That was yet to come. Still using same cap and wires. I have all new stuff ready to install, but I like to make changes in increments.

You would appreciate this: In the middle of one startup today, my 3461S starts dumping in fuel as it seems the pass. side float stuck open (it hasn't run in a few weeks). Of late, I have noticed a puddle of fuel in the manifold right below the secondary shaft on that side. Guess I'm not done sorting that sucker out yet. I pulled it apart to check it, but then the dinner bell rang. I already have the 3721SB out, but that's been sitting a while too so I'll pull the top on it tomorrow AM before continuing on my ignition problem.

Thanks for your response.

Stu Fox

[Gene M.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Stu
Is #1 plug wire on the cap terminal that is on the window door opening? Is rotor when dropped in pointing towards #1 cylinder in the block?

[Stuart F.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Gene;

Yes, the #1 wire lines correctly in relation to the window. The rotor tip points at #1 when I bar engine over to TDC.

One question: Does the balancer on a 63 L-76 have a key in it? I've barred the engine over using the crank end bolt head many times and am wondering if it could have slipped. That's a far out premise I'm sure, but I'm grasping at straws now.

Stu Fox

[Joe C.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Did you install a new distributor main shaft as part of the rebuild?

[Mike M.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

the finned balancers, and all other abc and bbd, have a key way cut in the balancer hubs. doubt "barring" the engine could damage the keyway. mike

[Gene M.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Stu,
How does the keyway and timing line line up? Just wondering if balancer shifted.

[Steve G.]

Re: Distributor Timing Problem

Are you gauging all this without doing an accurate static timing setup or a timing light check? If you have checked it accurately skip to the bottom of this. If you are trying to gauge without accurate timing, do the correct static timing check before going any further. The rotor won't point directly to the centre of the #1 terminal when timed correctly. If it did as the advance came in it would advance the rotor past the terminal on the cap. It's why the rotor has a broad contact on the end of it.

Drop your dist in and get it sitting down where you believe it should be. Stop the crank at whatever your intial timing should be, ie 10 D BTDC. The rotor should be pointing more or less to #1, Now rotate the dist housing clockwise far enough to ensure the points are closed. Turn the ign swithc on and connect a 12 v test light to the coil - term. The light will be off. Pull the dist counter clockwise slowly, stopping the moment the test light comes on ( the points break contact). Go back and forth with the dist a couple of times to ensure you are stopping exactly at the point the light comes on. Tighten down the dist. You are now within a degree or 2 of correct timing. Now check where your dist housing is facing.

Not right, move 1 tooth in the correct direction and recheck.

If you have been doing this by the static timing method or a light and you can't get it right, did you change the vac advance? Is the link properly installed in the breaker plate? Is the link exactly the same length as the one that came out. Anything that rotates the breaker plate will cause the running or static timing to place the housing in a different position. The rotor will be in the same position it always was.

Steve