Re: Distributor Timing Problem
OK. Thanks for all the tips.
Joe, I retained the original shaft because the scratch damage was above the position of the lower bearing, and the play in the bearings was minimal, barely detectable. The project started out as a rebuild, but became more of a refurbish. The main improvement was with the cross shaft. I drilled, tapped and installed a set screw to limit the cross shaft travel as it had already bored a fairly deep hole into the housing. There too, I reused the original cross shaft to maintain the gear match to the original shaft, and because the end was hard steel. The new replacement I had gotten had a bronze end which I figured the set screw would chew up in no time. I sent all the new internal parts back for these reasons and my conclusion their quality was sub par. I could not use the bronze or Teflon buttons either as I didn't know of a shop that I could trust to counter bore the housing to fit them with the cross shaft.
Steve, I have a Pertronics II conversion and, no matter what, I swear by it. My life has been so much better without points. My breaker plate is a Dyna-Flyte ball bearing unit which I've used for over 20 years. The VAC can is a B28, the performance of which I check regularly with my Mityvac. I have had it in use for about 4 years now. I did not change it. The only thing I changed on the top end was the advance restrictor. The old one had a groove worn into it. I also added an "E" clip. I used a lot of recommended silicone grease on the reassembly of the shaft and for the top bearing. I did close up the gap tolerance of the Pertronics magnetic pickup, as well as the end gear (as previously noted), neither of which should affect the timing that I know of.
After I change out my carb this morning, I intend to pull the distributor and rotate the gear (gosh, I hate to do that).
Thanks for the help guys. I'll report back how it goes. To think all I originally wanted to do was just change my plug wire brackets back to the originals in an attempt to get easier removal/replacement of my top ignition shield cover, and all this happened (distributor and carburetor problems).
Stu Fox
OK. Thanks for all the tips.
Joe, I retained the original shaft because the scratch damage was above the position of the lower bearing, and the play in the bearings was minimal, barely detectable. The project started out as a rebuild, but became more of a refurbish. The main improvement was with the cross shaft. I drilled, tapped and installed a set screw to limit the cross shaft travel as it had already bored a fairly deep hole into the housing. There too, I reused the original cross shaft to maintain the gear match to the original shaft, and because the end was hard steel. The new replacement I had gotten had a bronze end which I figured the set screw would chew up in no time. I sent all the new internal parts back for these reasons and my conclusion their quality was sub par. I could not use the bronze or Teflon buttons either as I didn't know of a shop that I could trust to counter bore the housing to fit them with the cross shaft.
Steve, I have a Pertronics II conversion and, no matter what, I swear by it. My life has been so much better without points. My breaker plate is a Dyna-Flyte ball bearing unit which I've used for over 20 years. The VAC can is a B28, the performance of which I check regularly with my Mityvac. I have had it in use for about 4 years now. I did not change it. The only thing I changed on the top end was the advance restrictor. The old one had a groove worn into it. I also added an "E" clip. I used a lot of recommended silicone grease on the reassembly of the shaft and for the top bearing. I did close up the gap tolerance of the Pertronics magnetic pickup, as well as the end gear (as previously noted), neither of which should affect the timing that I know of.
After I change out my carb this morning, I intend to pull the distributor and rotate the gear (gosh, I hate to do that).
Thanks for the help guys. I'll report back how it goes. To think all I originally wanted to do was just change my plug wire brackets back to the originals in an attempt to get easier removal/replacement of my top ignition shield cover, and all this happened (distributor and carburetor problems).
Stu Fox
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