Pumped

[Jack W.]

[Leif A.]

Re: Pumped

Jack,
The "need" for the engine to be at TDC when replacing the fuel pump is so that the fuel pump rod is protruding the least at the fuel pump...making it easier to attach the new fuel pump without the rod sticking out so far. And, yes, secure pump rod with a longer bolt from the front and remember to remove said bolt when finished.

[Jack W.]

[Frank C.]

Re: Pumped

Jack, Posting some pictures that I hope assist you. Leif is spot on. The fuel pump rod is not secured and is lubricated with your engines oil so it moves freely in its passage. This makes reinstalling the fuel pump with the rod not secured challenging. A recommendation Leif is making is to use a 3/8 x 16 thread bolt (I use one that is 1 1/4 inch see picture) threaded in from the front (see pictures).
The procedure is to put engine at TDC
Install 1 1/4 bolt a few turns to start
Install fuel pump rod and hold WHILE turning your bolt until it touches and holds your fuel pump rod. - Note this is hand tight and not with a wrench or ratchet to prevent marring the rod.
Then you can follow the steps to install your fuel pump.

One more note. I keep the 1/14 inch 3/8 x 16 bolt in my "road tool box" for emergencies. Frank

Fuel Pump Fix 3.jpgFuel Pump Fix 4.jpgFuel Pump Fix 2.jpgFuel Pump Fix 1.jpg

[Owen L.]

Re: Pumped

If I may add what I think Jack could be struggling with:

Even if you secured the rod with the bolt prior to taking off the old pump, unless the engine is at TDC it won't be recessed into the block as far as it could be. The new pump's arm spring will be fighting you. Rotate the engine by hand until it's at TDC, then resecure the rod with the bolt.

[Jack W.]

Re: Pumped

Exactly.
Man, I wish the quarters weren’t this tight. I just replaced the heater core, wiper/washer assembly, and engine wiring harness.
That was tedious, but a dream compared to this.
Oh, well,….mom never said life was fair.

I wanted to see if the new pump would attach without turning the crank.
Even compressing the pump spring I couldn’t get it flush. But, I think I do see one reason for the old pump to fail.

IMG_3699.jpg

I’m also curious,…are the gas line fittings to be wrapped with Teflon tape? On the old pump they seemed to be.

Jack

[Frank C.]

Re: Pumped

Jack, I do not recommend teflon plumbing tape. Permatex makes makes a thread sealant that works best. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...-fluids-sealer

[Jack W.]

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[Frank C.]

Re: Pumped

Jack,

Upfront I do not have the definite answer. looking in the archives, and from a picture of the AC fuel pump on my 66 L79, the hole has had a "casting date clock" or hash marks. My hole on both sides is bare. Hopeful others can weigh in so we can learn together. Frank
L79 AC Fuel Pump 2.jpgL79 AC Fuel Pump.jpgFuel Pump Casting.jpg

[Tim G.]

Re: Pumped

A bit of grease on the end of the rod will hold it in place if you can't access the bolt.

[Kent S.]

Re: Pumped

As you may know, the timing mark showing TDC occurs twice - once when #1 fires and again when #6 fires. If I recall correctly the rod is only completely up in the block when the timing mark is showing on #6 not #1. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

[Alan D.]

Re: Pumped

I've replaced my pump multi times however until I came to NCRS did not know about the TDC & bolt method, boy that makes it MUCH simpler.
As for the holes on the side neither of my original pumps have these. I've followed many posting on these pumps and do not remember seeing any with holes. Your "new" pump appears to have the correct screw.
See:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...-Will-the-work

for some good pictures.

[Jack W.]

[Jack W.]

[Jack W.]

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