Pumped

[John F.]

Re: Pumped

Sounds like a stuck float.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Pumped

John may have it, give the front bowl a few light wraps with a screwdriver handle and see if it gets better.

If the engine ran good with the old fuel pump and all you did was change the pump then you need to check the pump pressure. A carburetor only needs 5 1/2 to 6 PSI of pressure to run good, much more than that and the excess pressure can overcome the needle and seat causing the issues you are experiencing.

[Jack W.]

Re: Pumped

Sounds like a stuck float.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Pumped

For those reading this in the future, I purchased these nylon bolts to hold the fuel pump pushrod:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PNXXT4/

Now I can tighten the bolt enough that I know it's holding the pushrod and not scratch the pushrod at all. Since they come in a pack of 8, you can give a few to friends too.

[Frank C.]

Re: Pumped

Patrick, great find. I ordered the bolts today.

[Terry M.]

[Jack W.]

[Jack W.]

[John F.]

Re: Pumped

Tapping on the bolt that is on top of the front fuel bowl of the carb should loosen it up. If not, you could loosen the nut,while holding the screw that is in the center still. I would then turn the screw a half turn back and forth. Return screw to original position and lock the nut down. Post a picture of your carb with the air cleaner off. Others can chime in.

[Jack W.]

Re: Pumped

IMG_3786.jpg

Here you go!

[John F.]

Re: Pumped

Tap on that screw and around it to see if it frees up the float. Then try starting. It is good to have a helper. Good luck.

[James W.]

Re: Pumped

Jack,

I had this same thing happen to me on my '65 L-79. It ended up being a bad inlet needle and seat in the primary side. I replaced them both with new ones from Holley and went one step further and replaced the o-rings with viton o-rings that are suitable for today ethanol fuels.

James

“New” pump installed. Everything buttoned up.
I, with fingers crossed”, tried the first restart. Car started on second kick. Ran beautifully. The, after about 15 seconds it started to run ragged. I thought, maybe air in the line? So, I revved it a bit. No improvement, so I shut it down.
I went to check the carb and discovered that the entire intake manifold and carburetor were covered, pooled, in gasoline! Holy crap!!
Disaster temporarily avoided, I mopped up the fuel. But, I had no idea why this was happening.
I operated the throttle manually and noticed fuel dripping from the area of the pump linkage.
I had this carb rebuilt by a service recommended by NCRS just before covid. Since then it has never run better.
I’ve personally never had the carb apart. Anybody have any idea why it might suddenly be doing this?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]123118[/ATTACH]

[Jack W.]

Re: Pumped

Will do. Thanks, again.

[James W.]

Re: Pumped

You might try replacing the inlet needle and seat per my reply above.

James

[Terry M.]

Re: Pumped

A couple more observations/comments. First, not sure how long it has been since your carb has been overhauled but I would highly recommend it since you are likely replacing needle/seat and probably getting into the float bowls. Holley carbs are super easy to overhaul...I think they are the easiest carbs to do. You can get a kit from Summit. I would recommend you get a gallon of carb cleaner to soak the parts but, in a pinch, you could use aerosol spray. When you're done, the carb should work like new.

Secondly, there was discussion about using thread sealer on the fittings. This is a must for the pipe threads into the pump. However, you should not use sealant on the nuts of the flare fittings. The flare of the pipe against the tapered nose of the fitting is what creates the seal. Sealant on the threads will do NO good. If there is a leak it is the flare.

Terry