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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Ask around. You should be able to find someone good that will just spray it for you once you get it prepped for a lot less (either in their shop or yours). I used to do that some for friends but I haven't sprayed anything in 10 years. The right guy will stop by a few times while you are getting it ready to look over your work just to be sure it's going to be ready. I always took along my own guns and accessories too.Comment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Yeah, but the one I have that needs paint is blue.
I'm farming that one out.
PatrickVice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.Comment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Greg, If you can prep it you can paint it. Call me and I will talk you through it. My daytime number is 713-664-5018.Comment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Gary, Thank You for the post and the offer to help a fellow member it is a pleasurte to see you here.
So call me tomorrow.
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Gary, thanks so much for the offer and you words of encouragement mean a lot!
I have a terrible cold right now but once I'm over it I will surely give you a call.
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Dick, Must be something about silver and judges. At the '98 Ontario regionals, I had my silver 67 paint challenged by a judge (fortunately not a judge of my car) who thought is was a clear coat paint job when it was (and still is) the ORIGINAL paint. I've been lucky that the silver on my car has held up so well.1967 L71 Silver/Black Coupe - Unrestored/Original Paint, Top Flight at 1998 Regional in Ontario, not judged since
1995 Red/Red ZR-1 - Top Flight back in 2010 Michigan Chapter meetComment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Had my 67 at local car show last Summer. An NCRS guy did ? if the org. laquer was indeed org. After explaining the higher shine was due to Mequiars Tech Wax apx. 6-coats. Then examining my inside doors came to conclusion it was indeed Org. laquer. Some times the over polishing or clear on laquer is not an advantage.Comment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
No metallic is painted like doing a solid color , it's like blown on from all directions then you don't get Tiger lines . And if you can easily see the metallic flak in the paint it's wrong.
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Greg,
I'd clear the lacquer. What was chevy's 'magic mirror finish?
As for silver lacquer, say you shoot the whole car on three different dates, you get to practise twice on the whole car. One critical piece is to have bright lights reflecting on the car so you can see how the paint lays as you shoot it and adjust your speed or distance as you go.
Do the jambs and wheelwell openings on day one. That should get your feet wet. It is always good to shoot a scrap panel first to figure out the big issues. Air pressure, correct temp thinner, % thinner, gun adjustments
Keep the flake in motion. Buy, borrow or rent a paint shaker and use it often.
JoeComment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Sorry, Roy, but according to all the instructional videos and expert painters I've seen paint, "blown on from all directions" to avoid tiger striping and blotching of metallics IS ALL WET! If you don't use good technique, the only thing you accomplish by alternating your pass direction is to end up with a checkerboard instead of tiger striping.
I'm no expert, but this is what the experts say:
(1) When painting the sides of the car, "walk the car" without stopping your passes along the entire length; if you make short passes starting and stopping at body gaps, you'll end up with accumulation of material and possible blotching at the ends of your passes. I found it takes considerable experience, skill, and control to keep the gun at the same height and the nozzle perpendicular to the surface while walking through the entire horizontal pass.
(2) The greater the possible variation in the paint, e.g. metallics, candies etc., the more your gun passes should be overlapped. Gun speed and material rate will have to be adjusted accordingly. For solids, at least 1/2, and preferably 2/3 overlap, metallics and candies probably 2/3 to 3/4 overlap. That means that if the first pass you lay down is 9" in width, you should cover 6" of that first pass with the second pass, and so on until you finish. It's slower, and takes a lot more passes, but should help eliminate striping.
Tiger striping is caused by separating the centers of passes by too much distance with lighter coverage on the edge of the spray fan between the passes...the overlap ensures that the center of the spray fan is near enough to the center of the last pass for complete and more uniform coverage.
And, you are correct about not being able to see the flake in 50s through 70s metallic paint...if you can see it, it's not authentic. For those that had eyes to see, that was obvious from the picture of the 67(?) silver lacquer posted on the old TDB. IF that fine flake can be found as a mixing component, you will should be able to at least match the metallic appearance.Comment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
chuck I was just passing on what I was told ,I'm no painter. ThanksComment
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
Well, Roy, I gained insight about my own behavior from your post, even if it wasn't about painting.
As long as we're learning something and/or not misleading others, we're golden. In my opinion, there's never anything wrong with sharing or passing along what we've learned or think...but we should have to defend it when we're wrong. That's how we get to the truth...I've frequently had to dive into "foxholes" here, and there is still time for others to take issue with my comments above.
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Re: Your thoughts on a lacquer clear coat....
The "Magic-Mirror" finish was DuPont acrylic lacquer, formulated to re-flow in the final bake oven in order to minimize the need for post-bake polishing; didn't work as well on Corvettes as on steel bodies, as the Corvette couldn't be baked at the same temperature as the steel bodies, and required polishing to bring up the gloss.Comment
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