C3: Force to remove rear spindle

[Steve L.]

I've got my rear spindle on a 12 ton press in an effort to change the rear bearings and trailing arm. Doesn't seem to be pushing out. Anyone know if this is normal. I was thinking of putting the torch to the inner bearing shaft race to get it cherry hot. Is this a bad idea?

Steve L
73 coupe since new

[Joe L.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I've got my rear spindle on a 12 ton press in an effort to change the rear bearings and trailing arm. Doesn't seem to be pushing out. Anyone know if this is normal. I was thinking of putting the torch to the inner bearing shaft race to get it cherry hot. Is this a bad idea?

Steve L
73 coupe since new

Steve----


I can tell you that for long-installed spindles, it can take more than 12 tons. Make sure the assembly is not supported by the trailing arm, or you'll distort it. You can increase the pressure to at least 30 tons if you properly support the assembly. The spindle will release with a LOUD BANG.

If you use a torch, you will risk damage to the spindle and the bearing support. Usually, the bearing support will be ok, but the spindle will not.

[Terry M.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I recall hearing that they were assembled with a 40-ton press.

[Wayne W.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I recall hearing that they were assembled with a 40-ton press.

Maybe, but It shouldnt take that much force for sure. You know you can press butter with a 40 ton press or your finger. Its going to result in the same thing.

[Steve L.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

Thanks all,
I was afraid of putting too much force on it. I'll run the press to it's max. These brgs were never touched before. I can't imagine doing this under the car with one of those brg presses. No wonder people bend the housing arms.

Steve L
73 coupe since new

[Joe L.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

Thanks all,
I was afraid of putting too much force on it. I'll run the press to it's max. These brgs were never touched before. I can't imagine doing this under the car with one of those brg presses. No wonder people bend the housing arms.

Steve L
73 coupe since new

Steve-----


The GM/Kent-Moore bearing presses will usually not work for long-installed spindles. Sometimes, with these you can tighten them up, beat on the press bolt, tighten them up again and repeat the process until the spindle moves. However, more often than not, they won't budge. Also, it's very possible to break or distort the caliper bracket when using the GM-style press, especially if one does not get the press perfectly aligned on set-up.

The hydraulic press is what's usually necessary and requires the trailing arm or spindle assembly to be off the car.

If you have the rotor removed, you can easily separate the spindle and support assembly from the trailing arm. That makes it much easier to support in the hydraulic press. It MUST be fully supported or you'll break something when you apply high pressure.

[Gary R.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I do a lot of arms and usually use just the spindle kocker tool and a 5 lb hammer to drive them out. I used to use a press but as Joe said if not properly supported you will damage something or risk injury. With arm at the proper angle the hammer work 95% of the time for me without damage to the parts or myself.

[Patrick T.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I tried to use a knock out tool on my '67 to remove the spindle that had been in the bearing for 35 years and rusted solid. Also tried to use a 5 ton puller but it was of no use.

Had to take it to a John Deere Dealer shop where the guy put it in an arbor press and started pumping the handle while watching the PSI. At 10 tons, the trailing arm was starting to collapse. He looked at me and said what now? I told him keep going, I just needed the spindle intact.

At 15 tons, there was a sound like a .22 rifle shot and the spindle dropped out of the bearing. The spindle was OK but the trailing arm was completely crushed. PT

[Dick W.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

All the more reasons to use someone that does this on a regular basis. When I was doing them, customers would bring them to me after they had made attempts to press the bearings our. Ruined trailing arms, broken spindle supports, spindles with the threaded end ruined, torch gouges in the spindle, etc. Cheaper to let the professionals such as Bair's do it.

[Joe L.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I do a lot of arms and usually use just the spindle kocker tool and a 5 lb hammer to drive them out. I used to use a press but as Joe said if not properly supported you will damage something or risk injury. With arm at the proper angle the hammer work 95% of the time for me without damage to the parts or myself.

Gary-----


I'm amazed that you've had such luck with the "spindle knocker" and 5# hammer. Years ago (and I mean YEARS ago), I tried to remove some spindles using a 5# hammer and NO "spindle knocker" (they hadn't been invented yet, although I should have figured out how to make one myself). I completely ruined the threaded end of both spindles, of course, but I NEVER got the spindles to budge. After I realized I had ruined the spindles, I had no further concern for them so I REALLY whacked away (with the trailing arms off the car and spindle housing supported). No dice. Maybe I had that 5% you were referring to.

[Jeremy D.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

Send them to Bairs. You might be able to get lucky, but if you don't it's going to cost you more $$ in the long run....besides, when you get them back from Bairs, they are on the money and you can be sure that they are right. They did a fantastic job with mine, WITH THE ORIGINAL ROTORS STILL RIVETED ON.

[Steve L.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I wonder if GM put on to much interference fit on these brgs?

Steve L
73 coupe since new

[Gary R.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

Joe,
I can't say,maybe you did have that 5% I hold the arm at about a 45* angle, knocker tool installed and 4-7 shots the 5 lb usually get them off. Sometimes I'll use a propane to heat the race joint and then shoot some PB blaster or Kroil in there but I haven't had to use a press in a long time.
I have one of those spindle press and install tools that everyone sells and never used either one. The tools I use most are the knocker, setup tool with my fixture, Starrett indicator and a surface grinder. I grind everything parallel between the outer brg and flange. I never use those spacer kits either, too wide range to dial them in.

[Wayne W.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

Gary-----


I'm amazed that you've had such luck with the "spindle knocker" and 5# hammer. Years ago (and I mean YEARS ago), I tried to remove some spindles using a 5# hammer and NO "spindle knocker" (they hadn't been invented yet, although I should have figured out how to make one myself). I completely ruined the threaded end of both spindles, of course, but I NEVER got the spindles to budge. After I realized I had ruined the spindles, I had no further concern for them so I REALLY whacked away (with the trailing arms off the car and spindle housing supported). No dice. Maybe I had that 5% you were referring to.

Maybe, but, I hardly ever use anything else. I have done hundreds and the only ones that have ever given any problems had welded races. I use the old puller for other things, but I cant remember when I used it last on wheel bearings. Never even wounded a thread on a spindle.

[Joe L.]

Re: C3: Force to remove rear spindle

I wonder if GM put on to much interference fit on these brgs?

Steve L
73 coupe since new

Steve-----


They were actually a rather light interference fit, although I've forgotten the actual amount. Vaguely, I recall that it might be 0.001". I've found that with a recent installation, the spindles come out quite easily. The GM/Kent-Moore tool will get them out VERY easily. A "spindle knocker" with a hammer will get them out easily, too. However, I've found that after they've been in their for a long time, they don't come out so easily.