Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60
I believe you would have a very difficult time getting the engine/transmission assembly to go into a C1 with an OEM shifter installed. That's because the "stick" on the OEM shifter doesn't come off. With that stick on there, you've greatly cut down on your manueverability. The people who do this with the shifter attached, do it with a Hurst shifter where the stick can be unbolted.
Look at the ST12 or the '61 passenger car manual for the adjustment instructions of the shifter. It's not hard. I believe you use a skinny (1/8"?) hex key as the gauge. Insert it into the shifter where indicated and through the tangs to get the shifter into neutral alignment, and then align the rods to that. The arms are in neutral when they're at 12 o'clock. Not too hard to do in the car. Do it with the rear of the tranny hanging down some to give yourself some room. After you install the shifter and adjust the linkage, install the speedometer cable and the crossmember/mount.
Be careful how much you allow the rear end of the tranny to hang down. At some point, you stress the engine motor mounts and the rear of the engine hits the firewall. But letting it hang down will help you gain access to it. After the front motor mounts are installed, I use a scissors jack to hold the rear of the tranny.
Use one of those plastic plugs in the rear of the tranny to keep the fluid from leaking out. While you can fill the tranny with fluid while it's in the car, it's easier when it's out.
You can get the fuel pump on after the engine is in the car if you swear a lot and have little fingers. I believe it may be easier to do with the engine still on the hoist, a few inches up from final placement on the mounts. But in the heat of the battle, I always forget to do that. That's how I know about the swearing and the little fingers. One thing you must do, is install the 45 degree fitting on the pump before you install it. Once the pump is on, you can't tighten the fitting. You can't get it to go through a full turn.
I believe you would have a very difficult time getting the engine/transmission assembly to go into a C1 with an OEM shifter installed. That's because the "stick" on the OEM shifter doesn't come off. With that stick on there, you've greatly cut down on your manueverability. The people who do this with the shifter attached, do it with a Hurst shifter where the stick can be unbolted.
Look at the ST12 or the '61 passenger car manual for the adjustment instructions of the shifter. It's not hard. I believe you use a skinny (1/8"?) hex key as the gauge. Insert it into the shifter where indicated and through the tangs to get the shifter into neutral alignment, and then align the rods to that. The arms are in neutral when they're at 12 o'clock. Not too hard to do in the car. Do it with the rear of the tranny hanging down some to give yourself some room. After you install the shifter and adjust the linkage, install the speedometer cable and the crossmember/mount.
Be careful how much you allow the rear end of the tranny to hang down. At some point, you stress the engine motor mounts and the rear of the engine hits the firewall. But letting it hang down will help you gain access to it. After the front motor mounts are installed, I use a scissors jack to hold the rear of the tranny.
Use one of those plastic plugs in the rear of the tranny to keep the fluid from leaking out. While you can fill the tranny with fluid while it's in the car, it's easier when it's out.
You can get the fuel pump on after the engine is in the car if you swear a lot and have little fingers. I believe it may be easier to do with the engine still on the hoist, a few inches up from final placement on the mounts. But in the heat of the battle, I always forget to do that. That's how I know about the swearing and the little fingers. One thing you must do, is install the 45 degree fitting on the pump before you install it. Once the pump is on, you can't tighten the fitting. You can't get it to go through a full turn.
Yes I felt like a goose !!!
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