72 Chassis Restore Question

[Steven G.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Joe, I would say sand blasting will do most of the frame especially using any frame openings available, but air and pressure washing over and over again will get the areas that the sand blaster can not. If in doubt, after finished, blow air into frame and see if any loose particles come out, if so, back to the original process. Also, warm temperatures makes this much easier to deal with and take your time, there is always something else to do other than the frame when a restoration is in progress. Steve

[Rich G.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I just had it sandblasted and brushed on POR15 chassis black. I wasn't going for the judging thing, just wanted it looking good.

[Joe T.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Thanks to all. I appreciate all the feedback. Once again, my apologies to Roger if I highjacked his thread. I will try to keep you apprised with my decisions and progress. One thing I am sure of, and that"s the powdercoat option...Regards ... Joe

[Keith L.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I just had it sandblasted and brushed on POR15 chassis black. I wasn't going for the judging thing, just wanted it looking good.

I like that exhaust exiting behind the front tires.

[Keith L.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I will be doing mine soon and this is what I will do. I am going to clean the inside of frame as best I can with what ever I can get in through any openings. I have decided against dipping the frame in acid as I don't want to eat away any good metal. The only rust damage I have is under the engine cradle. I don't think the rust desloving dip will for sure get every nook and cranny inside so I rule that out. I don't think powder coating or not is just about correctness. I believe if you are powder coating because you think it is protected more I don't think so. I understand how the powder is drawn to the charged metal and have done small parts at home. I have seen bare spots where wire was holding parts. There is no guarentee that every nook and cranny inside will get coverage. I will use a rust conversion inside with wands and turn the frame till I fell confident I have full coverage. Then the same with paint. On the outside If blasted to clean metal and properly painted it will be as protected with paint as well as with powder coating. Either one will scratch and if so it will rust if deep enough. Either one can be repaired but paint would be easier. I have seen powder coated frames that had a lot of fine scratches just from assembly. Kinda like scratches on a car from washing. That won't hurt but I don't like it. Now if you are paying some one to clean and paint your frame it probably will cost either way. But if doing it yourself could save hundreds. But with me it's not the money. I just don't see using powder for an original look. JMO

[Roger D.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Steven B, thanks and I will Google also then to see what I can find here in the DFW area. Prolly just a matter of calling around to see who has the size capability.

Steven G, you mentioned removing the frame caps in front of the rear wheels. Since I have never seen a bare frame in person, can you go into more description on what exactly that entails?

Joe, I'm glad you jumped in because it really enhanced the discussion.

Kieth, what did you mean by using a "rust conversion" inside the frame. What type of substance were you referring to? Thanks for your input!

Tom, Rich, Alan...Great pics! I am soooo jealous of those chassis. They are so beautiful it is almost a shame to cover 'em up with the body.

[Keith L.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

A rust conversion such as Eastwoods converts rust to an inert form and seals off the rust . You can follow that with rust incapsulator or POR and It should be good for another 40 years. First try to get something in there and nock off all the loose stuff and vacume it out. I have a 69 camaro project car that has been sitting since about 97 since I treated the top with rust encapsulator. It had a vinal top and had a lot of pitts and actually had holes between the rear glass and trunk. It still looks the same as it did when I treated it. No it has not seen any water but still impressive I think.

[Patrick H.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

FYI, I magazine I subscribe to (Auto Restorer) did a test between POR-15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. The Eastwood product turned out much better as far as longevity, ease of use, and other factors.

I've come to the same conclusion in my own use, and no longer use any POR products.

[Roger D.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Thanks Kieth, Patrick for that information. Great input and I really appreciate it.

This is such a great forum and group of folks. What would we do without it?

[Paul J.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

A rust conversion such as Eastwoods converts rust to an inert form and seals off the rust . You can follow that with rust incapsulator or POR and It should be good for another 40 years. First try to get something in there and nock off all the loose stuff and vacume it out. I have a 69 camaro project car that has been sitting since about 97 since I treated the top with rust encapsulator. It had a vinal top and had a lot of pitts and actually had holes between the rear glass and trunk. It still looks the same as it did when I treated it. No it has not seen any water but still impressive I think.

Keith, it's a small world. I bought a 68 Camaro project car in 1997 for my son to get some restoration experience. It's still sitting beside the house. I noticed that you and I are the same age and live in the same State. I ran into the kitchen told my wife that there's a lot of us. She said..."It's a disease".

Does anyone know how difficult these rust encapsulators are to sand blast or otherwise remove? My thought here is to use them temporarily (from 1 to 10 years) to protect my outdoor projects instead of the primer that I use.

Paul

[Patrick H.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

This is such a great forum and group of folks. What would we do without it?

Get more work done around the house.

[Steven G.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Roger, the frame caps are in front of rear wheels, they are welded and may appear to be part of the frame, but they are just metal plates. After removing, there is plenty of access to clean, paint ect. the long outer frame section on both sides, they should be replaced, sealed when finished to keep frame dirt and water free. I plan to make a set since they can be very rusted and thin but may be available to purchase. Steve

[John H.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

they should be replaced, sealed when finished to keep frame dirt and water free.

Steven-

I don't know that I'd "seal" those end caps to the frame side rail. The lower inboard corner of the cap is designed with an opening to drain moisture/condensation/mud etc. out of the bottom of the side rail section; if you "seal" them, that stuff will have nowhere to go, and will just sit there and eat through the frame from the inside.

[Steven G.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

John, You stand correct, after looking at a better plate on another car I DEFINATELY see that lower inner drain hole. Salt rust- out can make that hole undetectable, but I do like sealing around the rest of the plate. Steve

[Roger D.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Steven, do you grind out the weld that holds these caps in place and then (I assume) re-weld them back on after you complete cleaning/coating the inside surfaces of the frame?