72 Chassis Restore Question

[Roger D.]

I need to do a trailing arm restoration on my '72 and I know what's going to happen. I'll get the trailing arms off and then decide I cannot stop and before you know it the body will be off the car for a full chassis restoration. Thus in anticipation of that event, here is something I've been wondering.

It's obvious that the external surfaces of the frame can be restored but what of the inside surface areas? I know by looking in the holes in the frame rails that there is a good bit of rust in there too. So what can be done with the internal surfaces of the frame? Is it just a matter of finding a shop that can dip the frame to remove rust and then again to coat the internal surfaces with something?

Any experience others have had related to this would be appreciated.

[Paul O.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Roger do a search of the Archives or Discussion board if I remember correctly there was a discussion about a member having their chassis acid dipped and then Galvanized. Paul 18046

[Stephen L.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I went through that on a 67. Started with replacing trailing arm bushings and finished with a full frame off. I dipped my frame and then painted it. The internal areas that I could reach got painted. Others did not. My thought process is; the car will not be subjected to the water snow salt etc of its first 30 years of service after it has been restored. The frame will outlive me by many years as it sits under the body in a dry garage waiting to be driven on a sunny day. My frame was very clean BEFORE I started. If your frame is heavily rusted then you may need to do some repairs beyond dipping and recoating..

[Tom L.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I had my frame dipped. The results were less than wonderful. I then had it sand blasted to clean it to an acceptable level. The sand blaster people were able to get a surprising amount of coverage inside the frame by blasting through the various holes and openings. If I had it to do over again, I'd save the $450 I spent on having it dipped and go straight to the sand blaster.

As a caveat, my results could have had more to do with the outfit that did the chemical dip than the process itself. I've heard other people tell me that they've gotten great results from chemical dipping. I guess the lesson is to do your homework on the vendor.

Regarding finish, I had it powder coated so there is 100% coverage with a non-porous material, inside and out of the frame. I then painted it with a black DuPont primer that best matched the original finish. The blast and powder coat cost about $500, which I thought was pretty reasonable.

[Joe T.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I've been after the same issue for some time now (check out my older posts?) When you say "dipped" is that the acid dip or the electrolysis process? I am about to have the body lifted (after all this time) and have not found the person to clean/de-rust the frame, so I'm about ready to accept the abrasive cleaning. If someone can point me to a place that does electrolytic cleaning, I will get back on that path. I am also going to go for the powder coat even though that presents judging issues..Any help would be deeply appreciated...Regards...joe

[Tom L.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Joe,

I had the electrolytic process done and, as I wrote, I wasn't impressed. The only place in the greater Philadelphia area that provided this service, that I could find, was a place in Allentown. I don't recall the name of the place, but I can pull the receipt and post it tonight.

Since the dipping didn't work too well, I had it sandblasted and powder coated at Brooks Powder Coating in West Chester, PA. The owner is a retired military and commercial pilot. He and his wife run the place. It's a big, clean and well run shop. They've blasted many of the metal parts of my car during the restoration.

There are no judging issues with the powder coating since you can paint the correct finish right on top of the powder coating. Also, the powder is electro-statically attracted to the metal so you can get 100% coverage inside the frame. The only thing to look out for is dent repair. My cradle was dented from improper jacking over the years. Fixing it was tricky because body filler and conventional lead will melt and/or burn in the oven while curing the powder and high heat lead is too difficult to work with.

The answer I found was to blast the frame, mask off the cradle, powder coat, fix the cradle (still in bare metal) with conventional filler and then paint the whole thing with the frame paint list here in the achieves.

When I post the name of the chemical strip vendor tonight, I'll attach a picture of the final product.

[Alan S.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

The pictures I've been posting of my frame are what it looks like with powder coating, sanding, and Krylon 1613.
I stripped it myself. The frame wasn't pitted at all, but I removed the weld splatter. So it's a little smooth and has a 'bit' more paint compared to St. Louis.
Regards,
Alan

[Roger D.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Thanks for all the great replies. I didn't know powder coating was acceptable at all. Anyone know of a shop in the Dallas-ft. Worth area (or anywhere else in Texas and perhaps Oklahoma) that has the size capability of dipping a frame?

[Tom L.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Joe,

The chemical strip company I used was:

Kwik Strip Inc
1 W Allen St Unit #5
Allentown, PA 18102
(610) 437-7878

Attached are some pictures of the powder coated frame with a DuPont finish coat.

[Jim H.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Powdercoat then go over it with rattle cans (krylon tough coat works well). There was an apparatus you could use to get into the frame rails.

[Joe T.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Joe,

The chemical strip company I used was:

Kwik Strip Inc
1 W Allen St Unit #5
Allentown, PA 18102
(610) 437-7878

Attached are some pictures of the powder coated frame with a DuPont finish coat.

Tom: Nice pictures and GREAT JOB! I will definately look up the place that did the powder coat for you. Thanks. The only reason I wanted the electrolytic process was to allow me to coat the inside as well as the outside of the frame. I don't see how the abrasive can get the inside ready for coating (either powder or paint). I also wanted the powdercoat since the coverage inside the frame would be complete with the powder coat process. I will see what Brooks has to say about the inside coverage. Thanks again and regards...joe

(sorry if I highjacked this thread)

[Joe T.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Powdercoat then go over it with rattle cans (krylon tough coat works well). There was an apparatus you could use to get into the frame rails.

Thanks, Jim. I have heard that the KRYLON does a credible job and looks good. I am primarily interested in protecting the metal with appearance secondary (to me). regards...joe

[Steven G.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I am restoring a rusty 72' corvette and plan to prepare frame as I would any other auto frame using a combination of methods to prepare it before painting. First, I remove all suspension parts, remove frame caps in front of rear wheels. grind, cut-out rust, re-weld rust out areas and clean using air, pressure washer, steel brush + with long extensions to fit drills and sand blast. After cleaning process, I begin primmer and painting, by the time I have finished, the frame has been in every position possible, to cover every sq. inch (inside + out). This takes time as to allow primer/paints to dry before repositioning and re-coating, but, eventually it will be completed. An engine degreaser, long nozzel air spray gun is great for inside frame, this is an old school method that has worked well for many of my restorations over the years. Steve

[Joe T.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

I am restoring a rusty 72' corvette and plan to prepare frame as I would any other auto frame using a combination of methods to prepare it before painting. First, I remove all suspension parts, remove frame caps in front of rear wheels. grind, cut-out rust, re-weld rust out areas and clean using air, pressure washer, steel brush + with long extensions to fit drills and sand blast. After cleaning process, I begin primmer and painting, by the time I have finished, the frame has been in every position possible, to cover every sq. inch (inside + out). This takes time as to allow primer/paints to dry before repositioning and re-coating, but, eventually it will be completed. An engine degreaser, long nozzel air spray gun is great for inside frame, this is an old school method that has worked well for many of my restorations over the years. Steve

Thanks for the info Steve: I am planning on lifting the body soon and I am more interested in doing each job right and once. Will the abrasive blasting do a complete job? You seem to have used several methods of preparation. I have abandoned the idea of finisihing this car in my lifetime,so it has become an effort to produce the best possible outcome from each step. Thanks and regards...joe

[Steven B.]

Re: 72 Chassis Restore Question

Thanks for all the great replies. I didn't know powder coating was acceptable at all. Anyone know of a shop in the Dallas-ft. Worth area (or anywhere else in Texas and perhaps Oklahoma) that has the size capability of dipping a frame?

Roger, I Googled Dallas TX powdercoat and came up with a number of shops that powdercoat. There is one that usually goes to Pate Swap Meet (next month) at Texas Motor Speedway. I can't remember the name but think I have the card somewhere. They had a frame displayed a couple of years ago.

Steve