Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

[Patrick H.]

I'm trying to remove the end bolts on the rear spring on the orange 72. I've got the cotter pins removed (well, broken off so they're not a problem) and there is no way that the castle nut at the bottom of that long bolt will move. I let it sit with PB blaster on it for 48 hours, but it won't budge. Right now I'm using a box end wrench on the top end of it in the trailing arm and a 1/2 in breaker bar on a socket on the lower end.

Other than cutting the bolt (not easy) are there any other tricks to remove that nut from this bolt?

Patrick

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

I'm trying to remove the end bolts on the rear spring on the orange 72. I've got the cotter pins removed (well, broken off so they're not a problem) and there is no way that the castle nut at the bottom of that long bolt will move. I let it sit with PB blaster on it for 48 hours, but it won't budge. Right now I'm using a box end wrench on the top end of it in the trailing arm and a 1/2 in breaker bar on a socket on the lower end.



Other than cutting the bolt (not easy) are there any other tricks to remove that nut from this bolt?

Patrick

Patrick------


Basically, there are only 2 things that are going to work at this point.

First, you could try heating the nut as hot as you can get it with a MAPP gas torch. I think this will do it, but you may "ignite" the rubber cushions creating a lot of black smoke.

Second, I don't think that cutting the bolts will be really all that difficult, especially if you have a Sawzall.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Patrick------


Basically, there are only 2 things that are going to work at this point.

First, you could try heating the nut as hot as you can get it with a MAPP gas torch. I think this will do it, but you may "ignite" the rubber cushions creating a lot of black smoke.

Second, I don't think that cutting the bolts will be really all that difficult, especially if you have a Sawzall.

I took the MAPP gas along but didn't use it.
I tried it once with a Sawzall on the 71, and was telling Ryan about it as we attempted it tonight. Several blades later.... not fun.
I was thinking it might be easier to cut the castle nut in two (2 vertical cuts at its narrowest points) than cut the bolt.

[Terry M.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

And there is no way to get and impact wrench, even an electric powered one, there? There is nothing in the world like a good quality -- no Harbor reight stuff -- air powered impact to get things moving. An electric one is next best, but they are not as good as air power.

Plan B would be heat. If one jacks up the end of the spring to get the rubber cushion off the bottom nut the heat will be more concentrated on the nut --- then the air impact.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

I took the MAPP gas along but didn't use it.
I tried it once with a Sawzall on the 71, and was telling Ryan about it as we attempted it tonight. Several blades later.... not fun.
I was thinking it might be easier to cut the castle nut in two (2 vertical cuts at its narrowest points) than cut the bolt.

Patrick------

I think you'll have a harder time trying to cut the nut as you suggest than just cutting the bolt. I've cut grade 8 bolts of this size with a hack-saw with a good blade without really all that much trouble. I'm surprised that you've had so much trouble with a Sawzall.

Another way to cut the bolt (or the nut): use a die grinder with an abrasive disc. Make sure you use the type die grinder WITH A GUARD that's designed for use with the abrasive disc. Also, use a face shield. I've never encountered anything I could not cut with a die grinder and abrasive disc.

[David S.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Patrick,

If you have a lift, use a poll jack to take the pressure off the end bolts. If you are doing the work on the ground, use a regular jack. Once the pressure is off the bolt and castle nut, you should have no problem removing the castle nut and bolt. Then lower the jack slowly and the spring will come down off the bolt.

-Dave

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Car is on my lift, but the end of the spring is too low to get a bottle jack underneath and too low to get an impact wrench on it - at least not without lifting the car, which I'd have to do to try either one.

[Terry M.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Oh, the limits of a drive-on lift.

David's idea to get the weight off the nut before trying to remove it is a good one. I would encourage you to try to do that in whatever way you safely can.

[Jack P.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Oh, the limits of a drive-on lift.

David's idea to get the weight off the nut before trying to remove it is a good one. I would encourage you to try to do that in whatever way you safely can.

Floor jack will help

Jack

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Floor jack will help

Jack

That's a trick on a lift.
Probably possible, but a trick.

[Jack P.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

That's a trick on a lift.
Probably possible, but a trick.

Don't use the lift. Take off wheel first , it will give you the room you need. I jacked up car and put on stand on that side. The picture is before I took off wheel.

[Larry M.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Patrick------

I think you'll have a harder time trying to cut the nut as you suggest than just cutting the bolt. I've cut grade 8 bolts of this size with a hack-saw with a good blade without really all that much trouble. I'm surprised that you've had so much trouble with a Sawzall.

Another way to cut the bolt (or the nut): use a die grinder with an abrasive disc. Make sure you use the type die grinder WITH A GUARD that's designed for use with the abrasive disc. Also, use a face shield. I've never encountered anything I could not cut with a die grinder and abrasive disc.

Joe and Pat:

Not that it makes much difference, but I think that this bolt is a Grade 7. I just finished replacing mine on my 1967.

Recommend removing car from lift, and supporting on the ground as Jack has said. Then use a floor jack to lift one end of the spring to remove spring force from the bolt. Then get your IR or CP impact and set it to reverse MAX.

A little Kroil should help, but MAPP gas should also work.

The car in the picture has seen a few Northern winters. I was fortunate, as my retaining bolts could be removed with a 3/8 drive ratchet.


Larry

[Steve L.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

I cut mine off but I don't remember having any trouble doing it. It was quick.

I either used a sazall or a 4 1/2 grinder. For the sawzall, you need a fresh blade.....uhm, a metal one, not a wood one

[Jim M.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

A Dremel high-speed tool with an abrasive cut-off wheel will make quick work of either the bolt or the nut.

[Donald O.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Pat,

Don't use the box end wrench on the bolt head inside the TA. As you apply the undo torque the whole bolt will turn lascking the wrench to the TA ....BUT the torque required to loosen the nut may be enough to put a large bow out on the end of the TA from the box endwrench.
Use the 1/2" breaker bar ( the longer the better) with 6 point socket and extension on the bolt head and the combo box end on the nut. Add a 2nd box end on the open end wrench thats on the nut to increase your leverage. Or borrow a 2nd 1/2" breaker bar and 6 point socket.

Did you try Kroil?

Have you tried a nut breaker?

I have removed them using a hacksaw, not as hard as it sounds. Only took about 15 minutes of sweating.

If we could meet at BG I could give you some from my gallon can. I bought it about 20 years ago and still have 3 quarts left.

DonO