67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

[Joseph U.]

I noticed leaking break fluid from the front right wheel of my base engine 67. I pulled the tire and confirmed the leak so I need to repair the breaks (either myself or with much more $$$$ by someone else) I need a little advice here. As background I have a 60 and have no fear of those breaks - rebuilt them several years ago - have been dealing with break shoes since high school - but I have never re-done disc breaks - so I do not have any idea how difficult this is)
Anyway - I checked the caliper numbers and the calipers seem to be from a mixture of numbers with most being 547xxx so it seems that originality is not an issue here. Car had a frame off by orig owner (as a driver) before I purchased from a friend so I suspect breaks were "sleeved" but how would I know for sure (orig owner is no longer around to ask)? How hard to rebuild? When I look in the repair manual it talks about special tools (J-22591, J-22592, J-22638 and the catalogs sell special spreaders and clips for the job) Do I need all of this? Do I need to turn the rotors (they look nice and smooth to me). Are the calipers worth anything or should I return for core charge if I replace? I just want an idea of what I am getting into here. If I need to have it done by a "shop" so be it - right now I can drive it over there and save a lot of time - I would rather do it myself because that is most of the fun of an old car - but I don't want to get it all apart and then have to have it towed in and be finished by someone else - that would probably cost more time and money. Any help or advice here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Joe Utz

[Stephen L.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Do it yourself. You say you have experience with drum brakes. Disc are easier. Pads are very easy to replace.. pull the wheel, pull the pin and remove replace. A "C" clamp and a wood block will back off the pistons... no need for special tools. A leaking caliper, not knowing its history, probably should be sent out for resleeve or replacement. If you are worried about original numbers request the same calipers back. If the disc is smooth, check the runout. If its good then you should be good to go. Bleeding shouldn't be a problem. Its done the same way as drum brakes, just a few more bleeder valves involved.

Good luck.

[Peter J.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Joe,
I'm with Steve on this. I just did my 66 and put in "O-rings" while I was at it and it was easier than I thought it would be. I got my rebuild parts from CSSB and downloaded there instructions from their website and just followed along. Very easy job. You don't need the instructions - just use the service manual but CSSB instructions are easier to follow.

[Ridge K.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

I noticed leaking break fluid from the front right wheel of my base engine 67. I pulled the tire and confirmed the leak so I need to repair the breaks (either myself or with much more $$$$ by someone else) I need a little advice here. As background I have a 60 and have no fear of those breaks - rebuilt them several years ago - have been dealing with break shoes since high school - but I have never re-done disc breaks - so I do not have any idea how difficult this is)
Anyway - I checked the caliper numbers and the calipers seem to be from a mixture of numbers with most being 547xxx so it seems that originality is not an issue here. Car had a frame off by orig owner (as a driver) before I purchased from a friend so I suspect breaks were "sleeved" but how would I know for sure (orig owner is no longer around to ask)? How hard to rebuild? When I look in the repair manual it talks about special tools (J-22591, J-22592, J-22638 and the catalogs sell special spreaders and clips for the job) Do I need all of this? Do I need to turn the rotors (they look nice and smooth to me). Are the calipers worth anything or should I return for core charge if I replace? I just want an idea of what I am getting into here. If I need to have it done by a "shop" so be it - right now I can drive it over there and save a lot of time - I would rather do it myself because that is most of the fun of an old car - but I don't want to get it all apart and then have to have it towed in and be finished by someone else - that would probably cost more time and money. Any help or advice here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Joe Utz

Stephen gave great advice. Changing disc pads is a piece of cake. A google search will show many helpful guides with photos.

I would be very cautious about "turning" the rotors, UNLESS you have positve proof there is an issue.
Many honest, experienced mechanics say this is a vastly over-used, and often unecessary step.

Good luck and have fun!
Ridge

[Michael W.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Do NOT have the rotors turned or replace them- this is a perfect way to induce a new problem that would not otherwise exist.

C2/C3 Corvettes with disk brakes are unique animals. 99% of corner garage mechanics have no idea how to maintain and may do more harm than good.

[Domenic T.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

I noticed leaking break fluid from the front right wheel of my base engine 67. I pulled the tire and confirmed the leak so I need to repair the breaks (either myself or with much more $$$$ by someone else) I need a little advice here. As background I have a 60 and have no fear of those breaks - rebuilt them several years ago - have been dealing with break shoes since high school - but I have never re-done disc breaks - so I do not have any idea how difficult this is)
Anyway - I checked the caliper numbers and the calipers seem to be from a mixture of numbers with most being 547xxx so it seems that originality is not an issue here. Car had a frame off by orig owner (as a driver) before I purchased from a friend so I suspect breaks were "sleeved" but how would I know for sure (orig owner is no longer around to ask)? How hard to rebuild? When I look in the repair manual it talks about special tools (J-22591, J-22592, J-22638 and the catalogs sell special spreaders and clips for the job) Do I need all of this? Do I need to turn the rotors (they look nice and smooth to me). Are the calipers worth anything or should I return for core charge if I replace? I just want an idea of what I am getting into here. If I need to have it done by a "shop" so be it - right now I can drive it over there and save a lot of time - I would rather do it myself because that is most of the fun of an old car - but I don't want to get it all apart and then have to have it towed in and be finished by someone else - that would probably cost more time and money. Any help or advice here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Joe Utz

Joe,
If you did drum brakes then disc will be a breeze.

The calipers will come off easily after you pull the pin and remove the pads.
Your hone may fit the diameter of the larger pistons and the spreader is used to push the pistons in the bore enough to put the new pads in.

There was a thread about shops doing machining that is not necessary and it was mentioned that discs were turned even if it was not needed.

Thats right most are not needed but when a shop does them they HAVE to do a complete job to stand up in a court in case of a failure in another area.
A good ,well lets just say lawyer, would ask if the job was done completely then ask if most shops turn the discs?

On my own I just break the glaze and they work fine and we have the machine that turns discs here in the shop.

My discs on my 67 were never turned and I took .004 off to remove the PAINT ( yes I blasted, primed , and painted them) because I think rust shows that something is rotting away and I want my car preserved and protected against corrosion.

You will find it to be easy.


DOM

[Gary R.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

To do the job correct and have brakes that will stop on a dime you will need to check the entire system to be sure it's all up to spec and beyond.

Tools Required:
Basic hand tools
001" dial indicator with a strong magnetic base
1-2" micrometer
Motive bleeder

Get the car in the air safely. Check the M/C to see what the fluid looks like, if it's muddy then you'll have to replace it, the Motive works great for this.
If you have a history of the brakes that will help, you'll want to know how old the rubber hoses are, what type BF used,pad's, rotors,etc.
Look at the rotors, are the rivits still in them? If not then someone was in there unless Bairs riveted them on during overhaul. I bolt them on myself.
You're going to have to pull the bad caliper but before you break open the system rig a hanger for the calipers and then install your indicator so you can see where the rotor runout is and what you have for bearing endplay.
I set both to 0015-002 +/- .0005" you may find it anywhere. I just rebuilt an original virgin set of 1970 LT1 trailing arms, rivets and all, and the runout was 008-010 with only 005 wear on the rotors. I wouldn't let anything over 003 go myself.
Once you know the runout then you'll know if you have to address that. Now pull the caliper that's leaking and split in 1/2 you're going to need at a minimum a caliper overhaul kit with new o-rings,seals,& boots. If the was restored it should have SS lined calipers and you'll know once you get it apart. If it's smooth bore and pistons/springs are good then all you may have to do is rebuild the caliper and bleed the system. If it's muddy,dirty then I would go through all of them.
Cars that sit will absorb moisture and this will turn DOT 3 into a nasty mess. I recommend any car using DOT 3 that was left for 3+ months to PM the brakes by bleeding them with fresh BF. I use only DOT3 and lip seals in my calipers. I set the runout and endplay up like I stated and the brakes are great, I have never used any of the current parts like drilled,slotted rotors or O-ring seals and have never had a problem- unless I let the bleeding go too long.
If you're going to keep the car you might as well buy the tools now and do it right. Finding someone that will treat your car the way you want is not easy.
Good luck if you need any help let me know. I have threads with pictures on rotor runout and bearing rebuilding.

[Joseph U.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

thanks for the advice, I have the car on blocks now and there is zero grease anywhere - just a leak on the front right wheel - I think I will just take that caliper apart and give it a go - I can see the pads and they are just fine - after all - while I drive it whenever I can - it is still less than 1000 miles a year - probably a lot less. I think I will do the one caliper and leave the rest alone - why fix something that is not broken - after all it is a dual system - so even if something else goes - doubt I will lose both the front and back at the same time - I have a receipt so I know synthetic fluid was put in back in 2005 - so I doubt I will have the muck that came out of the 1960. Since I know there is a leak on the front - do you think I need to replace the pads while I have it apart?
Thanks for the help and advice.
Joe

[Domenic T.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Joe
Many will say do it all at once "if one go's the others will follow" but it doesen't always go that way and if you are the only driver you will know when something is not right.
I think if you have 5/16 of pad you are good but under a 1/4 inch is getting to where you may want to figure what your time is worth.

DOM

[Richard M.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

I need to express my opinion on this Joe.....

Why do just one caliper? If 2 were leaking would you just do those 2? If 3.... just 3? I have never heard of anyone doing a brake job on half of a axle set. Maybe just fronts, or just rears, but never just one of a pair.

If you are going to go through with the task and then bleed the system, why not do all four because inevitably, if one starts to leak now, others will certainly follow. You may even find that the others are in fact leaking a small amount, but you cannot see it yet!

I just did a complete brake system on a 67. Including every line, hose, caliper, etc. Two of the four calipers were leaking, one front, one rear. If I did just those two, the other two would leak right after I was done.

Rich

[Timothy B.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Gary,

When you encounter excess runout what's the procedure to true the assembly. Does the assembly need to be done as a unit or can the rotor be trued and then shimmed to the hub/spindle. Is it possible to remove the studs and turn the hub?

Where is the best place to purchase quality rotors if they need to be replaced? I realize these rotors are indexed at the factory and the rear has holes that line for adjustment of the emergency brake.

[Peter J.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Tim,
I know this question is for Gary and I am no expert but just clocking the hub (indexing as it were) was all I had to do on my 66 to get in spec for runout when I put new hubs on mine.

[Paul J.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

I need to express my opinion on this Joe.....

Why do just one caliper? If 2 were leaking would you just do those 2? If 3.... just 3? I have never heard of anyone doing a brake job on half of a axle set. Maybe just fronts, or just rears, but never just one of a pair.

If you are going to go through with the task and then bleed the system, why not do all four because inevitably, if one starts to leak now, others will certainly follow. You may even find that the others are in fact leaking a small amount, but you cannot see it yet!

I just did a complete brake system on a 67. Including every line, hose, caliper, etc. Two of the four calipers were leaking, one front, one rear. If I did just those two, the other two would leak right after I was done.

Rich

Joe, replacing all of the components for any system is a good preventative measure, but I would'nt replace everything even if my car was immaculate and perfectly correct. "If it ain't broke don't fix it". You said that your car was a driver. It is much more cost effective to deal only with the issue at hand. As others fail, then address those problems individually. This is a very easy repair and you can have a satisfactory, safe, and functional result whether you do the job under the professional guidelines that Gary gave or the more "shadetree" techniques that others mentioned.

The only other thing that I can add is to be sure that your pads are not contaminated with brake fluid. If they are you will have to replace them, and then you would replace both sides (as you prabably already know).

[Richard M.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Tim,
I know this question is for Gary and I am no expert but just clocking the hub (indexing as it were) was all I had to do on my 66 to get in spec for runout when I put new hubs on mine.

This is how I did fronts on the 67 I've been working on.

They were original rotors still riveted. They were out of thickness spec so removed them , drilled out the rivets, & bought new rotors. I tried indexing all 5 ways, but no luck. Runout was still above spec....>0.004". I put new wheel bearings in as part of the task. I did not re-rivet the rotors on. I bolted them to the refinished hubs, set punch marks on the hub and rotor, stamped the appropriate lettered id marks("LF", "RF") etc on the rotors for future reference. I took the hub/rotor assemblies bearings included, to my local machine shop to be machined as a assembly. Came back and checked runout again. LF was 0.0015", RF was 0.0005".

Rear rotors were replaced, indexed, within spec and marked and index-punched for reference. Runout checked again and well within spec. End play checked and ok as well. Luck was on my side this time. The only other way I know of to correct runout of the rears is to shim between the rotor and hub. A buddy recently used thin aluminum sheets made up as shims to get it in spec. Beer cans were just the right thickness the last time he did it!

Rich

[Timothy B.]

Re: 67 break rebuild - do it yourself or not?

Rich,

Where did you buy the rotors??

As far as replacing the seals on all brake calipers I can only add the same statement that has been posted, "If it ain't broke don't fix it". That being said I still would remove the pads and inspect the all the calipers carefully for leaks, you don't need to remove them to do this..

Many times these lip seals leak because the pistons are not exercised and they flat spot from the weight of the piston and leak. Go out and pump the pedal to keep them round sometimes when the car sit for extended periods.