key code

[Michael S.]

I have the 4 digit Key No. to my 65 that was on the previous owner's Customer Owner Kit ID Card. I pulled the ignition lock cylinder and it has the same 4 digit code on it, thus it would appear the ignition is the original (?). I have a working key (not original GM) for the ignition which I'm assuming is cut to this code. The key does not work in the doors or glove box. I have no key for those. I'm assuming I will have to pull the door locks and glove box lock out, but will a locksmith be able to "rekey" these cylinders with this 4 digit code? As I've learned here, the ignition and doors will be the same key, but does that key code also identify the glove box/spare tire lock keys. I'm making some asumptions but I would like to keep the keys matching the GM identified key number. I have searched and looked at quite a few threads on keys, but couldn't apply it directly to my inability to totally understand what this 4 digit number meant.

thanks,
Mike

[Gary B.]

Key code

Mike,

For a '65, the 4-digit key code for your ignition should also be correct for the doors, but that code will not be correct for the glove box lock or spare tire lock. If the key you have operates the ignition and not the doors, and you know that that key code is original, then it's likely someone has changed your door locks.

Regarding your glove box lock, that takes a different key with a different code. If the glove box lock is original, it should have a different 4-digit code stamped into the side of the internal lock core. The lock needs to be taken apart to see that code. And if the glove box lock has been replaced, it likely will not have a code stamped into the core. In the absence of the glove lock key code, any decent locksmith can make a new key if you remove the glove box lock and bring it to him/her.

To fix the door locks, you will probably have to remove the locks and take them to a locksmith as well.

Gary

[Michael S.]

Re: Key code

Gary,

Thanks! A follow up: How hard is it to get to the "internal lock core" for the glove box ? I've got the lock out but wasn't sure what the next step was to see where the code would be and if it was there (original).

thanks again,
Mike

[Gary B.]

Re: Key code

Gary,

Thanks! A follow up: How hard is it to get to the "internal lock core" for the glove box ? I've got the lock out but wasn't sure what the next step was to see where the code would be and if it was there (original).

thanks again,
Mike

Mike,

It's pretty easy. These are instructions Pete Lindahl posted last month.

"looking at the back side of the ... lock case you'll see 2 rectangular holes (1 at 12 o'clock & the other is at 9 o'clock still looking from the back) near the front of the lock case where it steps down. You can see one of the holes in Rich's second photo.

Next using the key turn the lock to the unlock position, remove the key, push in slightly on the push button and then using a paper clip, small screw drive, or dental tool push down on the top of the "keeper" (it looks like a tumbler) and hold it down while pulling on the push button and the push button, lock cylinder can be removed out the front of the case."

You don't need a key to remove the glove box lock core. In fact, the process will not work if any key in inserted into the lock.

Gary

[Wayne M.]

Re: key code

I have the 4 digit Key No. to my 65 that was on the previous owner's Customer Owner Kit ID Card. I pulled the ignition lock cylinder and it has the same 4 digit code on it, thus it would appear the ignition is the original (?). I have a working key (not original GM) for the ignition which I'm assuming is cut to this code. The key does not work in the doors or glove box. I have no key for those. I'm assuming I will have to pull the door locks and glove box lock out, but will a locksmith be able to "rekey" these cylinders with this 4 digit code? As I've learned here, the ignition and doors will be the same key, but does that key code also identify the glove box/spare tire lock keys. I'm making some assumptions but I would like to keep the keys matching the GM identified key number. I have searched and looked at quite a few threads on keys, but couldn't apply it directly to my inability to totally understand what this 4 digit number meant. ......

Mike -- first; yes, the glove box and spare tire carrier key is the same; you'll find the 4-digit code on the cylinder of the glove box, when you remove from its case. There is no code stamped on the spare tire cylinder. So first step would be to get a locksmith to cut a key based on code stamped on glove box lock. He would also be able to tell, by the tumblers currently installed, whether they had been changed.

As for the ignition/doors, again, a locksmith would be able to tell you if the code stamped on your ignition cylinder matches the tumblers currently installed. If so, then you'd want to check the doors to see if same stamped code on their cases as the ignition. As to why the ignition key doesn't work in the doors, the tumblers may be worn, or somebody has swapped the door locks. In any event, I assume your aim is to return to factory keys/codes.

Look in the first few pages of any Chev or Corvette shop manual, prior to '67. It shows how to determine the 6-digit tumbler order/code by laying the key on the drawing. As for the 6 tumbler positions on the attached thumbnail, [1 is deepest; 4 is shallowest cut]. Read from head of key towards the tip.

Below I show a typical code sheet for the GM keys used from 1935 to 1966. You will see that the 4-digit code translates to a 6-digit almost random tumbler code based on 4 possible permutations. Found this posted on Chevytalk.org site.

[Gary B.]

Key code

... There is no code stamped on the spare tire cylinder.

... As for the 4 tumbler codes on the attached thumbnail, [1 is deepest; 4 is shallowest cut].

Wayne,

Two minor corrections.

1) I have found the key code number stamped into the spare tire lock cylinder in about 5% of the Corvette tire locks that I have examined over the years. So although it's rather rare, it can't hurt to check for it.

2) The higher the biting number, the deeper the cut (more material removed). So in your example, a #4 cut would be deeper than a #1 cut.

Gary

[Michael S.]

Re: key code

Gary and Wayne,
Thanks, very well explained and it worked pretty easily. There was a code on the lock cylinder, so again, I'm assuming the lock is original. I haven't taken the door locks out yet but that will be my next step. Wayne, interesting that the code sheet you posted was the correct page for my glove box key code (84xx) but my code was on the bottom half that was not pictured.

thanks,
Mike

[Michael S.]

Re: key code

Wayne, Any hint on how to find those code sheets on Chevy.org. Went there and registered but wasn't sure what forum or keywors to search.

sorry to be a pain.
thanks,
Mike

[Wayne M.]

Re: key code

.... Wayne, interesting that the code sheet you posted was the correct page for my glove box key code (84xx) but my code was on the bottom half that was not pictured......

Mike -- Well, we'll just have to correct that .

I chopped off the bottom half for the DB post because I felt guilty; after all, these code-breaker books were theoretically only available at Chevy dealers and locksmiths.

Probably best to send me a PM with your email, and I'll send you the whole sheet.

[Gary B.]

Re: key code

Wayne, Any hint on how to find those code sheets on Chevy.org. Went there and registered but wasn't sure what forum or keywors to search.

sorry to be a pain.
thanks,
Mike

Mike,

As Wayne states the code books are supposed to be restricted to locksmiths and others in similar need to know jobs. I suspect that access to such books is actually restricted by law in some states, in the same way lock pick tools are not legal to possess in certain states unless licensed as a locksmith..

Gary

[Michael S.]

Re: key code

Thanks again, when I saw the reference to the sheets being posted at Chevy.org, I missed the concept that they were somewhat confidential, although it makes total sense.

Mike

[Wayne M.]

Re: key code

Here's the two original keys off of [IIRC] a '66 L36 I used to own. Posted for info only, and to show an article by the two "key" gurus .

[Gary B.]

Re: key code

Here's the two original keys off of [IIRC] a '66 L36 I used to own. Posted for info only, and to show an article by the two "key" gurus .

Wayne,

What is fascinating about your photo is something I'm sure you've noticed. The key on the left is a so-called "no R" key, i.e., there is no registered trademark symbol (an R within a small circle) as there is on the key in the right in your photo. The no R keys were supposed to have stopped being used when the trademark symbol keys were introduced around Jan 1, 1963.

Also, what is the interesting stamping in the center of the "bar" on the key to the right?

Do you know the history of the two keys in your photo. Both seem "special".

Gary

[R N.]

Re: Key code

Gary,

Thanks! A follow up: How hard is it to get to the "internal lock core" for the glove box ? I've got the lock out but wasn't sure what the next step was to see where the code would be and if it was there (original).

thanks again,
Mike

Michael,

FWIW, original glove box key cylinders were chrome plated, while service replacement were not.....

[Michael S.]

Re: Key code

Michael,

FWIW, original glove box key cylinders were chrome plated, while service replacement were not.....

You are not talking about the keyed core inside but the outer chrome housing it slides in, correct? I hope so because the outer cylinder is nice shiny chrome.

thanks,
Mike