C2 Transmission Removal

[Marc K.]

My '67 is on jacks. I removed all of the brackets, driveshaft and the shifter, but can't get the M20 out. I have a jack with a piece of wood supporting the engine under the oil pan, but the engine doesn't drop far enough. I have rotated the transmission, but am about 1/4" shy of clearing the bell housing. Do I need to drop the bell housing or remove the motormount bolts to drop the engine a bit more?

Question 2 - When I put the new transmission back in, will I need to adjust the shift rods or will the still be in correct adjustment?

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Marc,

I would recommend removing the distributor before lowering the rear of the engine far enough for the main drive to clear the bellhousing. You will have to support the engine on a hydraulic jack so you can lower the engine enough. Move the M-20 to the rear and the main drive should just clear the bellhousing.
There should be no reason for the adjustment of the shifter to be effected if you only removed the arms and the shifter handle.

JR

[Edward J.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Marc, I will see if I can explain to you, It will come out its a matter of rotating the trans . Let it rest on the lip of bell housing, rotate the transmisson so the side cover is rotated 90 degrees and will be facing the down position, push up on the rear of tail housing. this will let you push the trans back enough to clear the bell housing.( shifter and linkage must be out or out of the way).shift rods should not be a problem as long as you did not touch the locking nuts for the adjustment.

[Marc K.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Thanks guys! I was able to get the transmission out without any room to spare. I did remove the ignition shielding, distributor cap and tachometer cable. I was puzzled why my engine wouldn't lower much. The distributor wasn't even close to the firewall. I am going to install a new tunnel insulator. I'm worried that the new tranny will be a bear to install. I didn't touch the shift rod adjustments so I should be good.

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

. I'm worried that the new tranny will be a bear to install.

Marc------


It will be. Use an old input shaft for a pilot tool and NOT one of the plastic or metal commercial "pilot tools" or it will be even tougher.

The transmission MUST BE FULLY SEATED on the bellhousing before the 4 retaining bolts are installed. DO NOT ATTEMPT to use the bolts to "draw in" the transmission.

[Paul Y.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Marc------


It will be. Use an old input shaft for a pilot tool and NOT one of the plastic or metal commercial "pilot tools" or it will be even tougher. In addition to Joe L. good advice, I have made a couple of pilot bolts ( remove the heads) to help align the transmission as it goes in. I put grease on the input shaft and pilot bearing (just a little will do) as well. Sliding in easy is a good feeling. (Don't go there)

The transmission MUST BE FULLY SEATED on the bellhousing before the 4 retaining bolts are installed. DO NOT ATTEMPT to use the bolts to "draw in" the transmission.

In addition to Joe L's good advice, I have made a couple of pilot bolts (remove the heads) to help align the transmission as it goes in. I also put grease on the input shaft and pilot bearing (just a little will do) as well. Sliding in easy is a good feeling. (Don't go there)

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Marc------


It will be. Use an old input shaft for a pilot tool and NOT one of the plastic or metal commercial "pilot tools" or it will be even tougher.

Why is this?

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Why is this?

Joe-----


I wish I knew why. My guess is that the commercial pilot tools are not precise enough to ensure good alignment. The alignment has to be precise for the transmission to seat easily. One would THINK that the bell shape on the face of the pilot bushing would eliminate the need for absolute precise alignment during transmission installation, but it doesn't.

I can say that I have NEVER been successful using a commercial pilot tool to align the friction disc and pilot bearing. I assume that others have been successful because if they were not they would not sell these things. However, I have NEVER been successful. On the other hand, I've been 100% successful using an old transmission input shaft for alignment. Most of the time, the transmission slips right in and seats without problems. Occasionally, there will be a little bit of a struggle but success ensues.

[John H.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

In addition to Joe L's good advice, I have made a couple of pilot bolts (remove the heads) to help align the transmission as it goes in. I also put grease on the input shaft and pilot bearing (just a little will do) as well. Sliding in easy is a good feeling. (Don't go there)

Paul -

Yup, I do the same thing; made my guide pins from a pair of 1/2"-13 x 2-1/4" bolts with the heads cut off, ends rounded and hacksaw-cut screwdriver slots, and a handy-dandy plastic output shaft plug to keep the smelly lube inside the transmission while you're wrestling with it.


TransTools.JPG

[Marc K.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

I fabricated some guide pin bolts and ordered new tools so I can do some riveting. I read your excellent article, John. My M20 is out. I had a tough time getting it out. I did the 90 degree rotation and pushed the tail as high as I could. I'm trying to figure out why my engine hardly drops at all. I'm concerned that I will scuff up the new tunnel insulator when reinstalling the transmission. How come my motor hardly moves when I lower the jack under the oil pan? The distributor still has lots of room before hitting the firewall.

Also, the old M20 I pulled out had the shift rods hooked up to the middle holes in the shift levers. All of the illustrations that I can find show the rods connected to the top holes. Does this change the throw of the shift? I assume the top holes are factory correct?

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

I fabricated some guide pin bolts and ordered new tools so I can do some riveting. I read your excellent article, John. My M20 is out. I had a tough time getting it out. I did the 90 degree rotation and pushed the tail as high as I could. I'm trying to figure out why my engine hardly drops at all. I'm concerned that I will scuff up the new tunnel insulator when reinstalling the transmission. How come my motor hardly moves when I lower the jack under the oil pan? The distributor still has lots of room before hitting the firewall.

Also, the old M20 I pulled out had the shift rods hooked up to the middle holes in the shift levers. All of the illustrations that I can find show the rods connected to the top holes. Does this change the throw of the shift? I assume the top holes are factory correct?

They're fastened in the "short throw" location. The cars are delivered with the shifter set in the normal throw position. The factory position is in the "top" holes, which creates a longer lever arm.

I assume that you have everything disconnected from the engine, except the motor mounts. It's possible that if you have replacement, locking type mounts installed that they might have more restraint built into them than the original type mounts. I'm guessing here and someone else might chime in to explain.

[Stephen L.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Possibly the exhaust pipes are holding the engine up........

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

Possibly the exhaust pipes are holding the engine up........

I really don't think anyone would try to remove the transmission without removing the exhaust pipes first. Would they?

JR

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

I really don't think anyone would try to remove the transmission without removing the exhaust pipes first. Would they?

JR

[Stephen L.]

Re: C2 Transmission Removal

[QUOTE=Joe Ray (1011);611981]I really don't think anyone would try to remove the transmission without removing the exhaust pipes first. Would they?

Its a '67. It MAY have sidepipes that wouldn't be in the way of the transmission removal......... Something is keeping the engine "up", not being there in person, I could only make a suggestion.