Re: How long does it take to damage an engine?
When I first purchased my 1967 327/350 HP car about 18 years ago, I removed the oil filter bypass when replacing the filter to be certain that all of the old gasket(s) were removed, and the block mating surface was clean. Sure enough, Bubba had installed two gaskets. I removed both and replaced with a new one. Since that time, I have found that I can use a very small flat screwdriver and a pick to remove the old gasket when changing the filter. No need to remove the bypass assembly.
I use a doubled over pipe cleaner to remove any trace of the old gasket residue in the o-ring groove, and then use either Vaseline (winter) or white grease (summer) in this groove and hold in the new gasket. In the summer, the engine is too hot and melts the Vaseline.........the white grease works best at that time. I clean the oil filter can and install a new WIX filter, prefill with a quart of oil, and then install unto the engine. As you turn the cannister bolt, the filter assembly goes up easy, and you can easily check if the gasket is still seated. Once hand tight, I torque to 20 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
As Stu said, the original cans are thicker metal, and are the best, but the repro cans also work well. I have never had a leak on either filter can in 18 years of changing oil......but I still always check for leaks immediately after starting the engine.
As Duke has already stated, I would not go to a spin on filter. There have probably been more issues with the spin on filter and its adapter, than with the original GM filter can.
FWIW...............Larry
When I first purchased my 1967 327/350 HP car about 18 years ago, I removed the oil filter bypass when replacing the filter to be certain that all of the old gasket(s) were removed, and the block mating surface was clean. Sure enough, Bubba had installed two gaskets. I removed both and replaced with a new one. Since that time, I have found that I can use a very small flat screwdriver and a pick to remove the old gasket when changing the filter. No need to remove the bypass assembly.
I use a doubled over pipe cleaner to remove any trace of the old gasket residue in the o-ring groove, and then use either Vaseline (winter) or white grease (summer) in this groove and hold in the new gasket. In the summer, the engine is too hot and melts the Vaseline.........the white grease works best at that time. I clean the oil filter can and install a new WIX filter, prefill with a quart of oil, and then install unto the engine. As you turn the cannister bolt, the filter assembly goes up easy, and you can easily check if the gasket is still seated. Once hand tight, I torque to 20 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
As Stu said, the original cans are thicker metal, and are the best, but the repro cans also work well. I have never had a leak on either filter can in 18 years of changing oil......but I still always check for leaks immediately after starting the engine.
As Duke has already stated, I would not go to a spin on filter. There have probably been more issues with the spin on filter and its adapter, than with the original GM filter can.
FWIW...............Larry
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