Engine block stamp pad
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
Chris and Gene...the difference in the size of the "J's" I pointed out in my post (#8). As Gene stated, there are other issues that could be talked about in comparing the two. However, I have found that photography can play "games" with things as well as the "cleanliness" of the surface. Proof of point is in these pictures of my own 67 original pad that was dirty and rusty. I am restoring this car now. I cleaned it while attached to my engine stand with about every solvent and nylon pad I could back in September trying not to mess up the broaching. Then I discovered Mothers Mag and Aluminum cleaner paste. The two pictures don't even look like the same stamping. The clean pad picture even shows my original stamp has an unexplainable striking under the "8" in my vin stamp. So, back to the original poster's pad, I would like to see a super cleaned pad re-posted.
67#1866V0919HTmotorStamp.jpg67#1866V0919HTmotorStamp3.jpg
Pad above was cleaned with Mothers Mag Wheel and Aluminum paste polish and resulted in the one below.
67#1866V0919HTMotorStampGood.jpgAvatar--My first ever vette, owned 3X since 1977, restored 1993-2024. Top Flight Award 9/14/24- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
The fonts aren't even the same when to lay these on top in PS, and then you have a double whack at the vin. To much wishium and hopium this is a another real original block 427 car.
What are the chances that Tonawanda mis built this and the rebuilt the motor due to a major mistake and then St Louis mis build the same car and fudged the VIN? Remember these were manufacturing plants and they were a lot better that you guys that have never been in the industry give credit. If it wasn't for the greatness of the inventive and creative people at the US auto companies like GM and Ford, the japanese would not have any thing to copy.- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
As Gene mentioned the "1" is something to look at. Not so much that it is a ""1"versus an "I", but the fact the the "1" has the extra cross at the bottom. The others I have seen, along with my car have two lines making the "1" while the pad in question has three lines making the "1".
Not just that, but most "1" I have seen have the slanted down top line while the pad in question has the top lie at a 90* to the vertical line.
Can one of you tell me if the three line "1" with the straight top line was used as well. This in itself seems to be a clear answer on what was done here.- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
Paul, I can see what you are saying after I looked some more. The curved bottom of the "2" is total difference from Gary's where it connects to the horizontal bottom leg. Good point....- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
Gary,Chris and Gene...the difference in the size of the "J's" I pointed out in my post (#8). As Gene stated, there are other issues that could be talked about in comparing the two. However, I have found that photography can play "games" with things as well as the "cleanliness" of the surface. Proof of point is in these pictures of my own 67 original pad that was dirty and rusty. I am restoring this car now. I cleaned it while attached to my engine stand with about every solvent and nylon pad I could back in September trying not to mess up the broaching. Then I discovered Mothers Mag and Aluminum cleaner paste. The two pictures don't even look like the same stamping. The clean pad picture even shows my original stamp has an unexplainable striking under the "8" in my vin stamp. So, back to the original poster's pad, I would like to see a super cleaned pad re-posted.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]44128[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]44129[/ATTACH]
Pad above was cleaned with Mothers Mag Wheel and Aluminum paste polish and resulted in the one below.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]44130[/ATTACH]
I think I have an idea what mark is behind the "8". Picture this. When the GM worker set the stamping tool down against the engine pad, he set it down hard (not in it's proper placement) and marked an imprint of the last "6" in the holder. The holder went down on an angle and hit in the middle area where the "8" now is. That is why the underlying digit is not complete. Nothing out of the normal work practice in the day.- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
The bottom line appears to be that the "T" and the "E" look pretty good. The rest are suspect.
So, if you question was truly about the possibility of the "J" being re-stamped , not very likely it would have been done with a different font all together.
If there was an underlying question about what we thought about it being original, it is really hard to give good advice from pictures, but some are so bad you can get a pretty good idea from pictures.- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
Asked in Post #22: Can one of you tell me if the three line "1" with the straight top line was used as well. This in itself seems to be a clear answer on what was done here.[/QUOTE]
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Yes
66 8683T1206ILMotorStamp.jpg66 6948T119IPMotorStamp.JPG67 7751T1229IQMotorStampFor SaleMcGee.jpgAvatar--My first ever vette, owned 3X since 1977, restored 1993-2024. Top Flight Award 9/14/24- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
Thanks Gary,
I have tried cleaning up the pad using carb cleaner, brake clean, etc. with a brass brush but I still cannot get all the paint out of the letters and numbers so I can a better picture.
I will try some Mothers Mag and Aluminum cleaner paste tomorrow if I can find some at the local auto parts store.
Herb- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
Apply paint stripper, use tooth brush and the lacquer thinner. Then use Mothers cleaner/polish....toothbrush and cotton cloth.
MothersPolish.jpgAvatar--My first ever vette, owned 3X since 1977, restored 1993-2024. Top Flight Award 9/14/24- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
I don't know, but a supposedly well documented 68 L88 sold at Mecum on November 17 with straight top ones....Not just that, but most "1" I have seen have the slanted down top line while the pad in question has the top lie at a 90* to the vertical line.
Can one of you tell me if the three line "1" with the straight top line was used as well. This in itself seems to be a clear answer on what was done here.- Top
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Re: Engine block stamp pad
I cleaned up the pad and took more pictures.
Unfortunately the camera I am using is not very good, I guess it is time to buy a better one.
As can be seen the first "J" seems to have the correct font and spacing.
So back to my original question, would Tonawanda have done that as a fix for a bad stamp?
By the way, I have the tank sticker and the car is an original L71.
Herb- Top
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