Heater Hose Nipple Removal

[Michael C.]

Does anyone have any sure (and safe) suggestions for removing the nipple for the heater hose at the intake manifold? Same for the bypass nipple. These are on a 69 BB. I know they've been replaced in the past, so they're not totally rusted. The hex flats are mostly in good shape, but I don't want to round them off in my efforts in case someone has a good solution.

Some sealant compound is barely visible. Is there a way to dissolve that? I've tried a number of applications penitrating oil over the last couple of day, but that was no help.

I will be replacing the nipples, so avoiding damage is not a problem - of course I don't want to damage the manifold, my knuckles or anything else.

I have a correct rebuild water pump on the way from Bill Mock and want to get ready for it. Also waiting for a new DeWitt radiator. Hope to have my cool ride on the road soon.

Thanks
Mike

[Joe L.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Does anyone have any sure (and safe) suggestions for removing the nipple for the heater hose at the intake manifold? Same for the bypass nipple. These are on a 69 BB. I know they've been replaced in the past, so they're not totally rusted. The hex flats are mostly in good shape, but I don't want to round them off in my efforts in case someone has a good solution.

Some sealant compound is barely visible. Is there a way to dissolve that? I've tried a number of applications penitrating oil over the last couple of day, but that was no help.

I will be replacing the nipples, so avoiding damage is not a problem - of course I don't want to damage the manifold, my knuckles or anything else.

I have a correct rebuild water pump on the way from Bill Mock and want to get ready for it. Also waiting for a new DeWitt radiator. Hope to have my cool ride on the road soon.

Thanks
Mike

Mike------


These nipples, especially installed in an ALUMINUM manifold such as yours, can be an ABSOLUTE BITCH to remove. The prospect of having to remove them is something to be ALWAYS feared. I have NEVER found that any sort of penatrent will help, at all. You may be able to heat the area SURROUNDING the nipple using a propane torch. After heating, quickly try to remove the fitting----sometimes it works, sometimes it does not. Of course, there is a risk when using this procedure.

Beyond removal, is there some reason that you absolutely need to change the nipples? If they are serviceable but only in need of replacement for "cosmetic" reasons, you might be better off living with the "cosmetic" problems. You can clean the nipples up very well IN PLACE using a brass wire wheel on a drill.

[Michael C.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Joe,
Yes, primarily cosmetic. This is probably one of those "choose your battles" situations. I better save my energy and patience for getting the new radiator installed when it arrives. Plenty to do in the meantime.

Thanks for replying.
Mike

[Terry M.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

I have not tried this, but several folks I respect in the restoration business talk favorably about a cooling product in an aerosol can. I believe the name is "Freeze Off" Try it on the nipple. Cold may make it contract and loosen the fit.

[Michael C.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Terry, I assume that they're referring to CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant and not the wart removal system. Of course a locked up nipple could be considered a wart.

I'll try to grab some locally and give it a try.

Thanks

[John D.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Here is how my helper removes stubborn fittings from FI baseplates. For example the 63 to 65 baseplate/intake manifold has a hex fitting and the water pump bypass fitting that just has a screwdriver slot.
He clamps the part in his hydraulic press after using large pieces of thick oak on both sides of the baseplate to protect it and reinforce it.
They he uses Aero Kroil penetrating oil and then lots of heat with his big torch set up. He heats the aluminum but not the fitting.Then he uses the proper size socket for the heater fitting with a large breaker bar that he puts a long pipe on. The fittings come right out. (most of the time)
For the bubba designed slotted by pass fitting he uses a long piece of flat steel that fits into the slot. No problems getting those fittings out.
If you don't have a large torch setup don't waste your time with propane.
Instead go get a cylinder of Mapp gas and you should be OK as Mapp gas is much hotter than propane. Wear goggles of course.
Worst scenario is to have the fittings cut out with a EDM machine. Big bucks but worth it. JD

[Joe L.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Here is how my helper removes stubborn fittings from FI baseplates. For example the 63 to 65 baseplate/intake manifold has a hex fitting and the water pump bypass fitting that just has a screwdriver slot.
He clamps the part in his hydraulic press after using large pieces of thick oak on both sides of the baseplate to protect it and reinforce it.
They he uses Aero Kroil penetrating oil and then lots of heat with his big torch set up. He heats the aluminum but not the fitting.Then he uses the proper size socket for the heater fitting with a large breaker bar that he puts a long pipe on. The fittings come right out. (most of the time)
For the bubba designed slotted by pass fitting he uses a long piece of flat steel that fits into the slot. No problems getting those fittings out.
If you don't have a large torch setup don't waste your time with propane.
Instead go get a cylinder of Mapp gas and you should be OK as Mapp gas is much hotter than propane. Wear goggles of course.
Worst scenario is to have the fittings cut out with a EDM machine. Big bucks but worth it. JD

John-----


Yes, the heat method may work but, as I mentioned above, there's a risk of damage associated with it. Also, when I said a propane torch, I meant a propane torch using MAPP gas (I should have said that). If the fittings are still serviceable, I don't see any reason to take the risk.They can be cleaned up with a wire wheel and, really, very little of the fittings is even visible when the hoses are installed.

By the way, if the fittings are removed and replaced, I highly recommend replacing with stainless steel fittings manufactured by Performance Stainless (www.performancesst.com). I don't use the "highly polished" versions, though, just the regular stainless. These are configured virtually the same as stock but of stainless steel material. They are absolutely BEAUTIFUL pieces and one has the comfort of knowing that they'll NEVER, EVER need to be replaced. The only way to go.

[Larry E.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Does anyone have any sure (and safe) suggestions for removing the nipple for the heater hose at the intake manifold? Same for the bypass nipple. These are on a 69 BB. I know they've been replaced in the past, so they're not totally rusted. The hex flats are mostly in good shape, but I don't want to round them off in my efforts in case someone has a good solution.

Some sealant compound is barely visible. Is there a way to dissolve that? I've tried a number of applications penitrating oil over the last couple of day, but that was no help.

I will be replacing the nipples, so avoiding damage is not a problem - of course I don't want to damage the manifold, my knuckles or anything else.

I have a correct rebuild water pump on the way from Bill Mock and want to get ready for it. Also waiting for a new DeWitt radiator. Hope to have my cool ride on the road soon.

Thanks
Mike

Mike: JMHO: Like Joe said it is risky. I would send the I/M to Jerry MacNeish to have him re-skin and R/R the nipples. All this can be done
for under $200.00. Just got my I/M #3937793 (1968-L36) done and came out looking brand new. Larry

[Michael C.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

The Jerry MacNeish approach does sound tempting. I have to ask myself - "Where does this stop?" It all started with a leaking fuel pump. Found a "weeping" radiator when I was under the car. (New DeWitts radiator expected to arrive next week.) Decided to replace the non-correct water pump while everything was open. (Mock rebuilt correct pump expected today.)

I see that Jerry also does exhaust manifolds. Should I tackle them while I'm at it? Maybe I should start a new thread. Ugh!

Thanks all.

[Larry E.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

The Jerry MacNeish approach does sound tempting. I have to ask myself - "Where does this stop?" It all started with a leaking fuel pump. Found a "weeping" radiator when I was under the car. (New DeWitts radiator expected to arrive next week.) Decided to replace the non-correct water pump while everything was open. (Mock rebuilt correct pump expected today.)

I see that Jerry also does exhaust manifolds. Should I tackle them while I'm at it? Maybe I should start a new thread. Ugh!

Thanks all.

Mike: Welcome to the club; we all go through this. One small project turns out to be a big project. But if you get those
things done now they will last a long time. Good Luck; Larry

[Edward B.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

If the change is only for cosmetic purposes remember the adage: The enemy of good is better.

[John D.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

HI Joe, Only thing I would worry about in my restorations is having a judge use a magnet on the SS fitting and then I would hear about it. John

[Randy R.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Heat the nipple, not the manifold. Let it cool, apply some penetrating oil and give it a try. Heating the nipple expands not only the nipple, but the item it is screwed into. When it cools the nipple contracts and hopefully allows some penetrating oil to seep in. I got this tip from a welding shop and have used it many times.

Randy

[Paul J.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

The Jerry MacNeish approach does sound tempting. I have to ask myself - "Where does this stop?" It all started with a leaking fuel pump. Found a "weeping" radiator when I was under the car. (New DeWitts radiator expected to arrive next week.) Decided to replace the non-correct water pump while everything was open. (Mock rebuilt correct pump expected today.)

I see that Jerry also does exhaust manifolds. Should I tackle them while I'm at it? Maybe I should start a new thread. Ugh!

Thanks all.

It's called the "might as wells". The stopping point is when you run out of money. When you replace parts with new or rebuilt parts and you can see the difference, then everyone else will too, and it will make everything old look bad. It's always best to recondition/restore as much as possible in a given area whenever you go into it (sort of like you are doing).

[Page C.]

Re: Heater Hose Nipple Removal

Page Campbell (2299) Very Frequent User
Copied and pasted this from an old post from 2008 that Randy Renfandt and I responded to years ago. Don't know why search engine dosen't always pick up old post.
This method works without damage to the manifold and only requires a hacksaw blade.
Regards,
Page



Re: Aluminum intake fitting removal?

Hi Brian,
This is what works for me. I cut it off, leaving about 1/4 inch beyond the manifold. Then take a hacksaw blade and cut the nipple in 3 or 4 places from the inside to the point it almost is breaking thru to the manifold threads. Then I take a hammer and punch a collapse the nipple. You can then screw it out by hand.
I have never had any luck using heat.
Regards
Page

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April 13th, 2008, 10:56 PM #4
Randy Renfandt (6423) Very Frequent User


Join DateMarch 1st, 1983Posts352


Re: Aluminum intake fitting removal?

My father taught me a method similar to Page's method to remove a nipple. I have used it many times. Saw the nipple in two places about 1/4 inch apart from the inside. Drive the small piece out with a punch by driving it towards the center of the hole. Then put the punch on the edge of the remaining piece of the nipple next to the gap where the small piece was removed. This will bend the piece away from the female threads. You can then thread this piece out. Be careful not to damage the female threads.

Randy