Why does it buck and die?

[John F.]

Re: It is not the coil.

See pics from my original. Hard to get a pic in tight spaces. Hope this helps.

[Monte M.]

Re: It is not the coil.

John,

Excellent observation. Yesterday I actually looked a bit to see if I could find a picture of an original. Reason being, why is this happening to this car and not any others.
What I did realize is, whit the style motor mount used on those cars, that area would get very little ventilation. Being against the head, as it initially was, then moving off the head a bit, made me feel good about being headed in the right direction.

Now, seeing your pictures, excellent job and observation by the way, I think Dave really needs to look into your point of the pump being put together clocked wrong. Even if just a bit, it could be the culprit.

This is why I was wonder if this fuel line be a bit off too.

Monte

[Monte M.]

Re: It is not the coil.

Dave,
After looking at all the pictures, it looks like if you were to disconnect, get the bottom of the tube located correctly, you should have no problem having enough length to hook it back to the carb.

If you want a little help, PM me and I will give you my phone number and talk you through my though process.

We have come this far. It should only take a few more minutes of actual work time to get it fixed.

I have bent similar things many many times.

You can do this very easily yourself. PM if you wish.
Monte

[David K.]

Re: It is not the coil.

Monte, I rebuilt the pump and scribed a line before taking it apart, so that I wouldn't get the pump out of "clock". The new pump is also clocked the same. Both pumps were ran on the car, trying to see what the problem and if it would help. In my mind, it appears to be vapor lock now. Since the fuel line was moved further from the engine as far as possible as I could at this time, the problem has improved a whole lot! Only an opinion, if the pump were to be off of being clocked properly, wouldn't I have a problem hooking up the fuel lines. The new fuel lines just fell into place.

John, your fuel line actually looks closer to the engine than mine does now. It does appear as if your fuel line is brought further right than mine. This would get it away from the engine a little more and also out into the air stream a little more. Mine is kind of hidden more behind the motor mount.

Monte, PM sent.

[John H.]

Re: It is not the coil.

Dave -

180*F is 30 degrees higher than the 150*F boiling point of E10 gasoline; if the carburetor float bowls are also that hot, you've got fuel boiling (percolating)before it gets to the jets. Is your heat riser valve wired open?

[David K.]

[David K.]

[Robert K.]

Re: It is not the coil.

David,
Did you block off the heat riser going under the carb? I agree it is vapor lock, but we are concentrating on the fuel lines and it can also be the carb. These cars seldom get driven in the winter and I would block off the heat riser any time the intake manifold is remover. Also, is the carb suppose to have a thick gasket under it? My carb has never been removed so I don't know. The carb can pick up heat fron the intake. Let's keep in mind we a talking about a WCFB and it's inherent float issues.
Bob

[David K.]

Re: It is not the coil.

Robert, I did not block off the heat riser. May I should have. The standard gasket is between the intake manifold and carb. I was not aware that there is a float issue with the WCFB's. It is the only carb, I ever had in the 41 years of owning '62 with 250hp. Though I forget now. I remember discussing blocking it off, when the engine was assembled 5yrs. ago, but I forgot what we did. The paint is really not burning where the heat riser is. One of the reasons I had thought of blocking it as well as the car is in storage from mid Nov. until April.

[Joe R.]

Re: It is not the coil.

Dave,

Here's a thread that may help with how to insulate fuel lines, even though it's not the same engine:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...84-fuel-system

Joe

[David K.]

Re: It is not the coil.

Good information there. I have been running Av Gas also as one poster in the older thread is doing. No Problem when I use that gas. Will have to look into the insulation of the fuel lines. I did wrap the fuel line from pump to carb. There was no help there.

[Dana M.]

Re: It is not the coil.

You could try another gas cap or just loosen up the cap you have to check and be sure it's vented correctly.

[Ken A.]

Re: It is not the coil.

E-85 is death on rubber fuel system components. Suggest you squeeze the rubber lines after it gets hot & if the line feels very soft, then it probably squeezing shut under load. Suggest all rubber lines be replaced every 2 years. Fuel line "insulation" will not work. Steel lines must not touch any part of engine. The fuel sock may also be dissolving. Suggest you look in carb for floating trash.

[David K.]

Re: It is not the coil.

Dana, the tank is vented by a rubber hose that runs across the tank and then into the gas filler door area. I did also, try removing the cap, just because it is too easy not to try.

Ken, I am using E10, there are 3 places that use a rubber house that is in contact with the fuel. One is a very short section or rubber line about 4" long between the tank pick up and the steel line that goes down the right side of the tank. This steel line then turns toward the front of the car and there is another 4" rubber connection. Since the hose connects the 2 sections of steel line in both cases, there maybe approx. a total of 3" of hose in connection here with the gas. This steel line then runs on the outside of the right frame rail, away from any heat, but the road itself. The steel line then terminates near the fuel pump where a approx. 8" rubber hose passes under the frame to the inside of the frame to connect the fuel line to the fuel pump. Out of the fuel pump it is steel line all the way from pump to carb. I do have this line shaped to be as far away as is humanly possible from any source of heat and also as high as I can to get it into the air stream coming off of the radiator fan. I have not taken the carb. apart, but I have pulled the fuel line pick up in the tank and it is like new and clean. The filter in the carb. is the same way. I did have a filter where the fuel line leaves the tank and at the first rubber hose joint. It has remained clean, so I removed it, thinking the additional filter just maybe a source of restriction. Everything from from the fuel tank to the engine is new. All fuel lines, fuel pump rebuilt and also replaced looking for the problem and the carb. restored.


Again, thanks for the thoughts
Dave

[Robert K.]

Re: It is not the coil.

I just checked Chicago Corvette. The carb insulator is for the 300 hp cast iron intake only, not the 250 hp cast iron or the 340 hp aluminum intake. Curious, why is that? I bet it would fix David's problem.