Re: C1 fuel problem
Joe,
Your ballast was definitely wired wrong, and possibly damaged the coil as it was at full battery voltage in Run at all times, BTW, could be up to 14 volts when generator is charging. I'd say the Green Coil+ wire started getting hot, was rubbing on the shielding, then got shorted to ground. Then it was too late, it melted and then started to melt other wires in the harness.
When I install a new harness, I add a 30 Amp fuse at the battery fed Black wire where it connects to the Ammeter(right side looking at rear of ammeter). This will protect a catastrophic type failure.
If you want to protect the Ignition feed (Brown), you can add a 15 Amp fuse between the Brown wire from the Engine harness and the Ballast screw terminal. You can do this as a temporary fuse circuit while you test the new harness, as it can be removed later. You can add a temporary fuse to the Solenoid Purple wire at the solenoid, probably 20 Amp.
Yes you could test the solenoid after removing the Purple (and Green) wires to make sure it's not internally shorted, but you could test that with a ohmmeter as well, once the wires are off.
Rich
Joe,
Your ballast was definitely wired wrong, and possibly damaged the coil as it was at full battery voltage in Run at all times, BTW, could be up to 14 volts when generator is charging. I'd say the Green Coil+ wire started getting hot, was rubbing on the shielding, then got shorted to ground. Then it was too late, it melted and then started to melt other wires in the harness.
When I install a new harness, I add a 30 Amp fuse at the battery fed Black wire where it connects to the Ammeter(right side looking at rear of ammeter). This will protect a catastrophic type failure.
If you want to protect the Ignition feed (Brown), you can add a 15 Amp fuse between the Brown wire from the Engine harness and the Ballast screw terminal. You can do this as a temporary fuse circuit while you test the new harness, as it can be removed later. You can add a temporary fuse to the Solenoid Purple wire at the solenoid, probably 20 Amp.
Yes you could test the solenoid after removing the Purple (and Green) wires to make sure it's not internally shorted, but you could test that with a ohmmeter as well, once the wires are off.
Rich
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