67 Holley 2300 Problem

[Stephen L.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

More than likely....

A quick test. Place a jumper clip lead from the +battery to the ballast resistor "Ignition" switch side. If the engine runs without holding the key in"start" then your problem is somewhere in that circuit. IF the engine still dies then you probably have an open ballast resistor. To test that just short across the resistor with your jumper. If engine runs then you know for sure the resistor is shot. It won't hurt to run the engine for a short period with the ballast resistor jumpered.

[Danny P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Thought you had fuel pouring out the side plug of all the carbs.

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Fuel pouring out was the first thing I noticed at the start of this thread few weeks ago.... Since have gone thru carbs a couple of times as noted in several replies. The fuel overflow may have been linked to the float tabs not permitting enough float down adjustment.....not really sure on that as I replaced all the fuel valves and I think the bowl levels are lower. ( Really can't be sure until I at least get it running for more than a second.) When the engine dies, it's like turning off a switch...instant . The bowls have fuel & hand exersizing the throttle gets a good shot of fuel into the center carb. As I noted, holding the key in start seems to keep it running. I didn't do that more than a few seconds in fear of damaging something else . Wondering if a bad ignition switch is the issue? I did replace the original points with a Mallory Unilite conversion in July 1988 ..... . I think the ignition switch may be original to the car.

[Timothy B.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Ralph,

Get a test light and when the engine quits see if you have power to the ballast from the pink wire that runs through the firewall. If not then it's possible the ignition switch needs to be cleaned or replaced. Do you have a wiring schematic, that will make it easy and don't overlook a dirty connection.

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Thanks, Tim... I do have a schematic & will do that test tomorrow. I also have a NOS switch coming...I see the original switch has metal tabs that might be bent back to open it.... Is that how you would clean the internal contacts?

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Thanks, Stephen.... Will get to this tomorrow I hope... I do have a new Ignition Switch on order since mine is likely the factory original ! I remember replacing the ballast resistor about 15 years ago.... very few miles since . I'm thinking more & more that an ignition problem was a major cause of my problem ..... perhaps still a carb issue in addition...

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

OK.... thanks to all who assisted me in this problem. The new ignition switch fixed my problem of engine starting & immediately shutting down. It began with an occasional issue & progressed to something that happened constantly. The carb bowls overflowing started me down the path of a carb(s) issue ....still don't know on that. I've read here that most carb issues are actually ignition issues & I am now a believer ! At least I now know a lot more about the ignition system AND have a lot of experience in re-kitting Holley carbs. By the way, I did find an Ebay seller with an exact match for the original switch. All the usual vendors seem to have just the incorrect configuration ones.

[Danny P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Glad the switch help you Solve with start up and shut down of course the switch would be the issue and understand that part , but from the first post when you say the engine starts runs a 1/4 mile then shuts Down and fuel is pouring out the side plug on the 3 carbs. I can’t see the ignition switch solve the fuel pouring out the Carbs. my question is what solved the fuel problem from post #8 fuel pouring out the Carbs. from your post .

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

That's exactly how it began & they are obviously unrelated problems. I did adjust the floats down after that first instance... then went thru the agony of removing the carbs twice for re-kitting trying to address the stalling problem. The fuel pump has been on for a long time & I doubt a high fuel pressure issue..But, I now have a Holley gauge & have figured a way to plumb into the brass block in place of the back carb. I can do that now that the stalling seems cured. More to follow I suppose!

[Danny P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Good Job Ralph, glad you figure it out , these Gremlins keep you on your toes , well done

[Daniel Y.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Ralph, After reading this I still think you have an issue with fuel Pump. Danny is spot on. I would be willing to bet your fuel pump is putting out 7-9 PSI. should be 5-6 PSI. fuel is blowing past needle and seats. also - fuel bowls will never adjust . fuel will poor out the site holes

worth checking the pressure

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

The reply above should have accompanied a message saying I did get the fuel pressure gauge attached & results are represented by these photos. Idling at about 750RPM shows the gauge bouncing between a little less than 5psi to slightly less than 7 . This gauge is not damped & so the needle has this fluctuation.... guess it could also be influenced by just vibrations. But, seems to be regular enough to be just pump action? This pump is stock & has been running for many years.

[Ralph P.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

Dan, not sure where my reply posts this afternoon went ? Anyway, I did get a Holley gauge plumbed in and at a 750 RPM idle readings were bouncing between 4.5 and little less than 7 PSI. This gauge isn't damped, so readings are hard to see exact. The pressure variations seem regular as if related to fuel pump operation. Is this normal? I tried to attach a 30 second video ; but, couldn't get it done. THANKS

[Daniel Y.]

Re: 67 Holley 2300 Problem

that sounds about the right pressure. was the fittings an inline or dead end to pressure gauge?

so the pump is not the issue